Weave-learning twill doubleweave blanket


Posted on Mon, 09/27/2010 - 12:08

You can get a small mirror the swivels on a long handle to look at the under side.  Also, if the layers are meant to not connect, run your hand between them each time you advance to be sure they are not linked.

Laurie Autio

Posted on Wed, 07/04/2018 - 19:01

Getting back to weaving after 30 years.  I made a mistake in the warping process, and my cross is messed up.  Is it critical that I fix this at the cross, or can I just make sure that the threads come forward and are threaded correctly through the heddles/reed, etc?

Posted on Thu, 07/05/2018 - 02:51

Just my experience, but it depends on what you're weaving. If you have a single color warp, just thread as close a possible and don't worry. Even with a striped warp, you can get as close as possible. Everything will figure itself out by the time it reaches the heddles. Crossed threads aren't a big deal. Just be sure nothing is 'double-crossed'.   I warp B2F with a raddle. Once I'm sure the threading/sleying is good and I'm weaving, the lease sticks come out. If I 'need' to re-create a cross for some reason (like tying on a new warp), I do it with the treadles.

Posted on Thu, 07/05/2018 - 03:44

You didn't say what the problem with the cross is, but I agree with TomZ.  I have had huge dissasters (new raddle came apart) and have been able to mudle through.  In the case of the raddle misshap, several badly crossed groups of threads had to have the cross pushed back toward the rear as they moved forward and interfered with the shed.  The whole warp was woven with this slight inconvenience.  I'm not sure how you would fix this unless you have a cross at the other end and rebeamed the warp.

Posted on Thu, 07/05/2018 - 19:04

Thanks, TomZ, and Big White Sofa Dog.  I managed, laboriously, to fix the cross.  The main reason for persevering is because I was having trouble with a very poor shed on this small loom  I bought ithe loom in the '70s before we left Sweden.  It is a folding loom, 36" wide, made by Inga Askling.  It has four shafts and six treadles.  It comes with front legs only, designed to be clamped onto a table or window-sill (see picture).  The test weave that I did before, showed me that the sett is too loose. I purchased the materials and the instructions from Malmö Hemslöjdsförening all those years ago, and I have forgotten what it was for (hand-towels, placemats, - no clue).  The instructions specify a reed 75-10 cm, but I don't have one of those, so I used 60-10.  But it is too loose - should I use 80-10?   The warp is Lingarn 12, and the weft is Lingarn 8 threaded double for warp and weft, 2 threads per heddle/2 threads per reed-opening.  The pattern is Rosengång, so it will be pretty (whatever it is).  Any advice would be appreciated.

Posted on Fri, 07/06/2018 - 17:24

75/10 means there are 75 dents per 10 cm. 80/10 mans there are 80 dents per 10 cm - so 5 more dents in the 10 cm. 

You could, of course, tinker with an uneven threading to achieve what the instructions say. In my experience (esp for linen) uneven threadings will show for a lot longer than you want (they wash out some, but not completely) - even more so with the relatively thick yarns you have.

Myself, I would go with the 80/10 (and maybe beat a tad harder).

As you have the model with lamms, it ought to be possible to adjust the shed (better than w/o lamms) - but the shed wil never be higher than half the length of the heddles. (Too long heddles will be counterproductive on a "fixed" loom like this - there has to be enough space above the shafts for them not to get entangles/hindered by the pulleys.)  These looms are made in Sweden, which means they are made for the low-profile Swe type shuttles.

It is hard to judge from the photo, but perhaps your shafts are a bit low? As there is no way to adjust the height of the beater, the adjusting will have to be done above the shafts.