Matching epi to # of threads in draw

thunk...thunk....thunk.....that is my head hitting the studio wall.  I am planning on tying on a new warp onto my warp currently on the loom.  My AVL WDL has 1" sectional warp sections and I just planned to convert from 60 to 24 by spreading the heddles when I tied on. No big deal.

Old warp is 60epi

New warp is 24 epi

Something was niggling at the back of my mind that I needed to fiddle with my warp count. finally dawned on me.  The middle of my new warp is 4 inches at 24 epi of acorn beige with a stripe of madder of 24 epi set on either side with a acorn border.  My PATTERN is set for 20 that worked REAL nice on 60 just got 3 repeats of your pattern within an inch, as in this project, which is the one I am tying onto....

The flash bulb went on in my head when I was almost done with winding on the warp...24 epi x 4 inches in the middle = 96 which is not divisible by the 20 shaft pattern I plan on design will drift offsides in the red madder stripe.  grrrrrrrrrrr

So...I am now unwinding the 2 red sections and refitting them with 2 beige 20 red and 2 beige so that my pattern won't slip slide away.

Besides paying more attention to epi relationship to my shaft count is there anything else I should have considered doing to reload?

BTW, I actually think my 5 end satin floats will be way too long for 24 epi so I'll probably convert to 1/3 twill for the same pattern but what the hey, I have enough for a sample.  I'll see if that sett is too wide for a 5 end satin.

whine, Deb Mc


Posted on Wed, 01/19/2011 - 04:38

It sounds like you are working with 20S straight draw?  I think the disconnect that needs to come is to get away from thinking in inches and think in terms of number of threads in the pattern units, whatever length they may be.  There is no reason the pattern should divide evenly into inches, and it often looks better if it doesn't.  Even with the sectional there is no reason all threads in the 1" sections need to be the same.  As long as the floats are not too long at the desired epi, all should be fine.  You didn't say what the new warp is, but 5 end satin should be ok with 24 epi as far as float length goes.

You could alternatively have changed the threading (to 6 end irregular satin if you have 24S) or to some interesting variant such as having one in 4 blocks be point rather than straight draw (that puts your 24 threads on 20 shafts and you could move the block the the point around on different repeats for interest but may require different tie-up to catch long floats).  Or, double 4 of the 24 threads through the heddles (first thread of each block?) and leave the rest single for textural interest.  Lots of fun ways to play with this one!

Laurie Autio

Posted on Wed, 01/19/2011 - 14:28

thank you for taking time to offer solutions, yes it is a 20 shaft draw with the other 4 shafts dedicated to a basketweave selvedge...after I figured out my issue I did rewind my red stripes to 2 beige 20 red and 2 beige just to match the draft....I considered switching to a different draft but I really wanted to see this one work.  I had already rewound the stripes OR I would have implemented your double the thread alternative...duh, so easy!  I have been saving your suggestions from this thread and the floral draft to couple with Bonnie's book so I have a plan to test out some other weaving paths.  I am exploring interleaving in my software (weaveit and pixieloom) so I am more comfortable with it.  Thank you again for the ideas.

ps, my lack of focus at the loom got worse last night, when I went to prep my new warp for tying on to the old warp I discovered that 4 sections were wound one way and 6 were wound a different way.  So I have taken another deep sign and will go back and correct that mistake. To add insult to injury I had checked myself but didn't catch it.  Weaving is fun when the human pays attention!