Difference between Taqueté and Compound Weft Faced Twill?

Hello experts! Just the humble novice again here! I've finally got this Taqueté thing down and of course I have even more questions. The one that I've not been able to answer myself is what's the difference between Taqueté and Compound Weft Faced Twill? I know that compound means you're using more than one weft, weft faced means that the wefts are what creates the design and are the only threads that are seen and that twills occur when a thread goes over one or more warp threads and under one or more warp threads. So that leads me to the question, what's the difference? Is there a difference? I research historical textiles, which are great for describing what has been found, but not so great on using modern weaving terminology. Cheers, Erica

Comments

Posted on Thu, 09/30/2010 - 20:41

I am not sure as to the answer but I am heading to the bookshelf and will see if I can find anything among my weaving books. 

Do you have Sharon Alderman's book, Mastering Weave Structures?  That might have it.  I also did a class with Robyn Spady that included taquete in the structures we studied.

I'll be back.  Meanwhile, hoping others will stop by with a response for you Erica.

Claudia

Posted on Fri, 10/01/2010 - 14:16

ERica,

I would post this in the Weaving forum.  Only the people who belong to the Taquete group will actually see this question when they sign on to Weavolution.  I think it's a great lesson for everyone and encourage you to just copy and post it in the Weaving forum here.

Claudia

Posted on Fri, 10/01/2010 - 14:27

I am not 100% sure about this, and perhaps you should ask a more experienced weaver, but:

A twill occurs when warp and weft floats occur in a consistent ratio, "stepping" by a consistent number of threads each time.  Twills have a characteristic diagonal line.  A twill when woven might look like this:

oxxx

xoxx

xxox

xxxo

where x's and o's are warp and weft on top, respectively.  You can see the strong diagonal line.  Taquete doesn't follow a twill pattern, and is not based on a twill.  So I think it's quite different from compound weft-faced twill.

Tien

Posted on Sat, 10/02/2010 - 01:43

Taquete is considered compound plain weave or tabby. The compound twill is actually samitum, with a twill tie down in the threading. A taquete block is 1-3-2-3 with 1 & 2 being the tie downs, and 3 the pattern shaft. For samitum the simpliest block is 1-4-2-4-3-4 with 1, 2 & 3 being the tie downs and 4 being the pattern shaft. I think this is the simpliest explanation.

Lillian

Posted on Mon, 10/04/2010 - 16:53

I've written a reply three times, but each time I've missed a step and haven't seen my response posted, so I'll try again. Maybe I'll find the right connection for posting.

Taquete is a compound plain weave because the threading unit is 1-3-2-3. Shafts 1 & 2 control the tie-down threads and shaft 3 controls the pattern threads. Samitum is a compound twill. In Samitum the simplist threading block is 1-4-2-4-3-4. Shafts 1, 2 &3 are the tie-down threads that create the twill and Shaft 4 is the pattern shaft. This is probably the simplist explanation I can give.

Lillian

Posted on Mon, 10/04/2010 - 18:54

Hi Lillian, I saw your original post and then it disappeared.  I think the thread was moved but I see your post again.  As usual you simplify beautifully!  thanks Deb

Posted on Sun, 10/10/2010 - 17:55

Thanks for all the explanations. I guess in this instance it's the difference between how the pattern is bound in the weaving?
Cheers,
Erica

Posted on Tue, 09/20/2011 - 13:17

Lillian,
After reading your article in Weavezine and reading all the replies here again. I think it has all finally sunk in! Thank you very much for your explanation.
I am very sorry that I missed your class on Taquete. It seemed I just couldn't make room in my schedule for any of those sessions.
Cheers,
Erica