weave words in the glossary - questions

I have mislaid my Emery, so I will have a few extra questions here...

So - reading Burnham's A textile terminology... she has this word "binding system" (CF "weave") - both are trnslated to "bindning" in Swe. Over the years, I have come to understand that the most common word for this in English (at least US eng.) is "weave structure". Advice, please!

In the glossary there is a term "basic threading". As it is translated into "grundbindning" ... what does it mean? To me, there are 3 "grundbindnigar" - tabby, twill and satin. The, er, "binding" has nothing to do with the threading - so, a "basic threading" would mean... a "straight threading" ("rak solvning"), perhaps?

So - on to the specifics:

herringbone, cross twill
To me (in Swedish, of course) fiskben (herringbone) is this - clean cut and all:

while korskypert (which sounds awfully like cross twill) is this:

It is not only a korskypert - it is a liksidig korskypert (literally translated: even-sided cross twill - or should it be "broken twill"?)

Which leads me to the different faces of twill. If there are as many ends showing as there are picks - we call that liksidig (even-sided) - like this. This iis a 1/1/2/1/1/2 twill - there are four rising and four sinking warp ends all the time . What is this called? (No doubt Emery has the answer to this, but...)

A Batavia (to me) *always* has half the number of consecutive ends rising/sinking - like this:

It is called Batavia whether it is a 4-shaft, 6-shaft, 8-shaft etc, er, "binding". It is also, of course, an even-sided twill :-)

A "weft faced" twill, to me, is one where there is a minimum of weft showing anywhere. (Same goes for warp faced, of course) Like this:

 

while a "warp dominant twill" could be this:

As that is a 1/2/2/3 twill, at anyone pick there are 5 rising ends and 3 sinking - which means that the warp is dominant. (This is just an example, of course)

Thoughts?

Comments

Posted on Tue, 11/03/2009 - 03:36

Waffle weave is våffelväv-- I think that one translates pretty much straight across.  I'm guessing honeycomb is more hålkrus, but not sure and don't have books with me right now.

I've never heard of 'cross twill' in English, but have seen what I call korskypert referred to as broken twill. Herringbone is also a broken twill.

Liksidig kypert would be 'balanced twill'.

I don't know who put "basic threading" in there, and I've been pondering what you would call grundbinding-- whatever it would be. I"ll have to search more for it . But I would imagine it  means the basic underlying fabric holding everything together-- not a straight draw.

I'll totally defer to you on Batavia.

weft faced means maximum of weft, not minimum.. same as weft dominant.

off to bed.

marie

 

 

Posted on Wed, 11/04/2009 - 14:28

Hi,

Is there anyone in the group who can provide these terms in Spanish?  I noticed a project that was derived from a book which is only available in Spanish and has some wonderful designs in it. 

What about French?

Claudia

Posted on Wed, 11/04/2009 - 15:28

HI Claudia......I have been filling in the French terms from an excellent French/English glossary I have.....is there something that has not been filled in that you are trying to define?

Su