weave words in the glossary - questions
I have mislaid my Emery, so I will have a few extra questions here...
So - reading Burnham's A textile terminology... she has this word "binding system" (CF "weave") - both are trnslated to "bindning" in Swe. Over the years, I have come to understand that the most common word for this in English (at least US eng.) is "weave structure". Advice, please!
In the glossary there is a term "basic threading". As it is translated into "grundbindning" ... what does it mean? To me, there are 3 "grundbindnigar" - tabby, twill and satin. The, er, "binding" has nothing to do with the threading - so, a "basic threading" would mean... a "straight threading" ("rak solvning"), perhaps?
So - on to the specifics:
herringbone, cross twill
To me (in Swedish, of course) fiskben (herringbone) is this - clean cut and all:
while korskypert (which sounds awfully like cross twill) is this:
It is not only a korskypert - it is a liksidig korskypert (literally translated: even-sided cross twill - or should it be "broken twill"?)
Which leads me to the different faces of twill. If there are as many ends showing as there are picks - we call that liksidig (even-sided) - like this. This iis a 1/1/2/1/1/2 twill - there are four rising and four sinking warp ends all the time . What is this called? (No doubt Emery has the answer to this, but...)
A Batavia (to me) *always* has half the number of consecutive ends rising/sinking - like this:
It is called Batavia whether it is a 4-shaft, 6-shaft, 8-shaft etc, er, "binding". It is also, of course, an even-sided twill :-)
A "weft faced" twill, to me, is one where there is a minimum of weft showing anywhere. (Same goes for warp faced, of course) Like this:
while a "warp dominant twill" could be this:
As that is a 1/2/2/3 twill, at anyone pick there are 5 rising ends and 3 sinking - which means that the warp is dominant. (This is just an example, of course)