Glimakra loom help from Glimakra in Montana, USA

We at Glimakra can answer your questions about new or used looms.   Glimakra looms have not changed much over time, but even experienced weavers who have had their Glimakra loom a long time may have questions about their loom and attachments.  Some weavers want to add shafts and treadles.  Some older looms may need parts or new heddles, tie-up cord or a countermarch added.  And we get a lot of questions about adding a drawloom to their Glimakra Standard or Ideal looms.   

I have been teaching weaving for over 40 years and have woven on many different types of looms over the years.  So, I am very familiar with most types of looms. We have information on our website for those who purchase new or used counterbalance and countermarch looms. So, if you have questions about barn frame looms, looms from other companies or just general questions, just ask. 

Joanne

Comments

Posted on Tue, 05/16/2017 - 20:02

there aree two terms - portee cross and porrey cross, and I always confuse them (my excuse being I'm not a native speaker of English...) - So. Warping 1 end at a time vill give you a 1/1 cross - but the loop will hold 2 ends (one "coming" and one "going"). Warping 2 at a time will give you a 2/2 cross, where the loop holds 4 ends (2 "coming", 2 "going"). And so on... If using a reed for pre-sleying the *loop* can not be divided, if you want to transfer the cross. However: several loops can be sleyed together without problems. Going back to your 8 dents per inch, with the final goal to have 24 ends to the inch: how can you get 24 ends to fit into 8 dents without splitting loops? Your friend's 2-4-2-4 will yield 12 ends per 1/2 inch, which is the same as 24 per one inch - BUT it will only work if you dit warp one end at a time (otherwise you would have to split the loops, right?) ... hope I'm making sense - otherwise I will try to make a sketch/picture... ETA: should you warp with 3 ends, it would give you a 3/3 cross, or a loop with 6 ends: then a 6-0-6-0-6-0-6-0 pre-sleying would be the easiest... 8 dents holding 24 ends with fewer possibilities of mistakes ;-)

Posted on Tue, 05/16/2017 - 20:06

I had a post with formatting that made sense, but spotted an essential typo. By using the "edit" function, I managed to include the critical figure, but at the same time lost my formatting...

not going to risk sitting here all night fixing formatting - hope you can read it anyway :(

Posted on Wed, 05/17/2017 - 14:00

Let us know how you are doing with your warp. I wove a lot of those My First Towels warps.
Joanne

Posted on Mon, 08/07/2017 - 13:32

There are two Glimakra looms with the name Aktiv.  There was one from the 60s and 70s with metal beams.  Then there was the Aktiv in the 80s which was a smaller folding loom. 

If you have the 80s folding loom, measure the clearance that you have around the Aktiv warp beam, then call Sarah at Glimakra and ask for the measurements for the 100cm sectional beam.  The wooden parts are about 1 1/2 inches by 4 plus inches and the metal hoops stick up more than one inch.  It is the clearance that you have that is important.  You could cut the wooden parts down after getting them.  

However, how many times have you warped your Aktiv loom?  Remember, on any loom, sectional warping is primarily for very long warps, like more than 20 yards.  Shorter warps are faster and easier to make in the traditional way.   If you tell us more about your experience, that would be helpful.

Joanne

Posted on Wed, 08/09/2017 - 07:22

Thank you so much for your pointers. I now have the sectional beam equipment at home and can attempt to try it on my 80s folding Aktiv loom.

However, I have another question. I warped the usual way and found that when tied on and tensioned I had great difficulty to get a release from the breaks and transport the warp further. The only way I found was releasing tension from the warp tie up, but for obvious reasons that does not wrok while weaving.

I am a newbie weaver and am doing this by myself (because I have to, I am a single full time working mum), so I don't know whether the tension would be to intense? How do I handle that when weaving? I haven't tied up the treadles and lambs yet. How tense does the warp have to be and how do I advance the warp?

Thank you in advance!

Posted on Thu, 08/10/2017 - 02:08

Since the Aktiv loom is a countermarch loom and you have a large handle on the warp beam, yes, it is possible to tighten the warp tighter than it needs to be.  So, for the final tie-up, you don't need to have it extremely tight.

After you tie up the treadles and start weaving, you will determine how tight you want the warp to be.  This depends on what you are weaving.  Plus, if it is hard to treadle, you can lighten up on the tension a little.

Joanne

Posted on Fri, 04/27/2018 - 21:14

I am preparing to warp my Glimakra Gobelin loom for the first time. The instructions for the loom make it clear that while the loom has a warp beam, the author strongly prefers using the knobs on the top of the loom instead. I’m game to try this, but I wonder what it will be like advancing the warp, which the instructions don’t address in detail. Do you just loosen the warp, wind on fabric, and then retie each bout? Loosen it a few inches, wind on, then even out tension?

If anyone has worked with one of these looms, I’d appreciate hearing about your experiences.

Posted on Sat, 04/28/2018 - 00:34

If you want to weave a tall tapestry, then use the warp and cloth beams.  If you are weaving a small tapestry and you will not be advancing the warp, use the warping pegs or the warp beam, your choice.

Joanne

Posted on Thu, 02/28/2019 - 14:55

Is there any information on using part 38 'Tie up fixture' in the standard-old.pdf document ? I have these two pieces but must have missed any coverage in the documentation.

Posted on Thu, 03/07/2019 - 11:27

I got a Standart 1m 4 shafts with Counterbalance Set up. (Got it as a bargain! 200€! yai!)

I am thinking of expanding it to 8 shafts. ( only 1m, not wide enough for blankets, so doubleweave,twill, more shafts needed) or at least 6 shafts.

As I´m only used to countermarch (so much easier), I´m doubtful, does it work?

Has anybody experience with this kind of setup?

Converting to countermarche is more expensive. but if it is too problematic in counterbalance......

Posted on Sun, 03/10/2019 - 04:24

In my experience, 8 shaft counterbalance looms are touchy to tie up and limited in that you must have a balanced tie up.  You will have some cost for either option, why not pick the best long term choice instead of spending money on something you probably won't be happy with if you prefer countermarche?  A 4 shaft counterbalance loom is simple to tie up, treadles effortlessly, and can often take a very high warp tension and produce a great shed.  But when you need more shafts, I would leave the counterbalance.

Posted on Mon, 03/11/2019 - 00:31

I agree, check with the factory about getting the countermarch.  You can choose from horizontal or vertical.  And you can ask the price for adding more shaft bars, treadles and upper lamms.

Joanne

Posted on Fri, 03/15/2019 - 05:17

I just bought a used Glimakra Kristina model tapestry loom (8ft wide by 6.5ft tall) from an estate sale in San Antonio, Tx. Acording to the folks there, it was bought in the mid 1970s and was among the first of it's type to be brought to the USA. It is in really nice condition...just needed a bit of cleaning up. I am a complete beginner and really need some advise and intruction on how to warp this loom. I know these are no longer being made, but I hope there maight be some documentation on them and perhaps instructions on warping it. Any direction or information would be very much appreciated.

Posted on Tue, 09/17/2019 - 18:16

I am trying to figure out why the Glimakra Standard, which I just spent a week weaving on, is a dream to weave on, and the ancient Toika Liisa I have is not. I forgot to measure the neight of the breast beam on the Standard before I left, but I think the Liisa's is higher. Would someone who has a Standard please measure that height for me so I can figure out if there's a spatial relation I could alter on the Toika to make weaving on it not an endless battle? I may end up with a Glimakra, but we had a flood and discovered in the process that the drains around the house are in need of replacement, so that's not in the budget right now. 

Posted on Thu, 09/19/2019 - 03:32

I suggest you look at your bench or seat height instead of changing the loom.  Try Walter Turpening's formula for the correct bench height; look at your treadle height.en

Posted on Sat, 09/28/2019 - 01:56

Do your shafts drop when you take out the locking pins?  Check your balance.  Give us more details on what you are weaving.

Joanne

Posted on Mon, 10/26/2020 - 10:20

<p>I am trying to weave my second project on my new Julia loom. I&#39;m not new to weaving, but the Countermarch loom is very new to me.&nbsp;Project 1 was really easy to weave, so for project 2,, I decided to weave a pattern from Tom Knisley&#39;s blood,, Handwoven Baby Blankets. The warp is 10/2 Tencel, which I used for another project, and it worked beautifully. This project is an unbalanced 8-harness M and W weave, with harnesses 4 and 5 having twice as many heddles as harnesses 1 and 8. There were almost no problems warping the loom, but after I tied up the treadles, the problems began.&nbsp;</p><p>I have had to do several adjustments to almost every treadle, and treadle 5 is a real issue. It is hard to depress, the cords connecting harnesses 4 and 5 are super tight, and those harnesses barely move. I found that the treadle cords had crossed, so they were straightened out, but the treadle is still acting like a cord is crossed somewhere. I have traced all of the cords to that treadle from the jacks to the treacle, and all the cords are good.&nbsp;</p><p>The other problem is that the upper threads are loose in every shed. They are so loose that the shuttle catches on them, and one thread has already broken. But the warp tension is even and tight on the bottom of the sheds and when the warp is flat.&nbsp;</p><p>I cannot figure out what is going on, and it&#39;s to the point that I will take the warp off the loom if I cannot fix these issues. Can someone help me please?</p>

<p>Julie Beers</p>

Posted on Tue, 10/27/2020 - 01:13

A couple general things to check;  make sure you don't have a treadle tied up to the upper and lower lamm of any shaft.  If you moved heddles around, make sure you don't have any heddles crossing shafts; top loop on one shaft, bottom loop on another.

Posted on Tue, 10/27/2020 - 21:48

Sounds dumb, but I have done this; the warp goes over the back beam?

Posted on Sun, 11/29/2020 - 15:16

This May I bought a used Glimakra Standard, 120cm, 8-shaft/10-treadle. I am having a heck of a time tying it up. I'm using Joanne's book (Tying up the Countermarch Loom), Dress Your Loom the Vavstuga Way, Madelyn Van Der Hoogt's Weaver's article (Everything You've Ever Wanted to Know...), and this very wonderful Glimakra owners group, yet I'm still having issues.

Since the loom came with 13" heddles I've been leaning heavily on Madelyn's article. Though I've followed it to the letter, I'm encountering: a) upper lamms interfering with the lower shafts, and b) lower shafts hitting the side crossbars that support the knee beam. According to a previous post, I have positioned the treadles at 6.25" from the floor to the bottom of the treadle. Other suggestions?

Posted on Sun, 12/27/2020 - 13:34

It might help me to see photos of the issues your having. I'm having a bit of an off day today and having trouble visualizing your issue. Thanks! :0

Weaving a reality! :)

Posted on Mon, 11/30/2020 - 02:53

I don't think this loom was designed to work with 13" heddles.  I would check with Glimakra, but the very large heddles might be the  problem.  10" is more common.

Posted on Tue, 12/01/2020 - 16:11

How does one adjust for dropping shafts once the locking pins are removed? This is my 2nd project on my 120cm 8/10 Glimakra Standard. It is a summer and winter draft, with most of the warp threads on shafts 1-3, and diminishing threads on shafts 4-8. Everything lines up beautifully when the locking pins are in place, but once they're removed the shafts drop progressively so that shafts 1-4 are >1" lower than shaft 8. The heddle eyes on these shafts are actually resting on the warp threads, so that if I try to advance the warp the heddles/shafts are dragged along with it. Please help--thanks!

Posted on Sun, 12/20/2020 - 10:58

I'm not actually sure if it makes a difference, but is your Standard a vertical countermarche, horizontal countermarche, or counterbalance?

Posted on Wed, 12/02/2020 - 15:12

Try reading the previous posts, and check your books for balance correction.  

Posted on Sun, 01/03/2021 - 18:05

<p>I have recently&nbsp;purchased a&nbsp;Pusslingen table top loom that is missing the lower heddle rails.&nbsp; My woodworker friend said he would make me new ones if I can get him some picures or videos of them in place on a loom so he can wrap his head around what I am asking for.&nbsp; Is there&nbsp; anyone here who can help?</p>

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