Warp beam flanges

Hi everyone,

My new-to-me FDL loom originally came with warp beam flanges that seem to be missing now. I'm not really sure what they are and what they are used for but I'm wondering if I should get a new set. Any help would be appreciated.

 

Jo Anne

Comments

Posted on Fri, 11/13/2015 - 16:19

How do you know if they are missing? They are not a standard AVL item. My 40" FDL has smaller diameter warp beams so the flanges have to be ordered or made to fit your loom. I have a set for my 60" PDL, different size. I warp on the plain beam only using flanges. Not a fan of aprons.

Posted on Fri, 11/13/2015 - 16:22

Warp besm flanges are for a specific beaming method. Apparently it is covered in Peggy Osterkamp's books - as well as other weaving literature.

After you have read up on how they work you can decide if you'd want to replace them. Basically, done well warping with flanges allows the warp to be wound on without packing material.

Posted on Fri, 11/13/2015 - 17:39

The flange idea does work well. I made some for a supplemental beam with input from MM-and-OO's and others. I've only had them a couple years and have used them on 5 or 6 warps. I do most of my weaving in winter. I've always had good results.

Posted on Fri, 11/13/2015 - 21:00

I understand how they support the edge of the warp, but how do you keep threads from cutting down to a lower layer and giving you tension nightmares?

Posted on Sat, 11/14/2015 - 00:40

I assume in the same way a sectional divider works without warp cutting into layers. Wound with good tension and evenly. I use a reed as a raddle. I tried it once with a wooden raddle that was really close to the roller, secured to the beam. It caused ribbing as I wound and I could see that wasn't going to work and never tried weaving it. I think the yarn was crowded in the wooden raddle. To rectify the situation, I used the reed and that put a stop to that. There have not been cut layers or tension issues so far for me with them.

I did these pique weaves with the flanges: the yellow was heavier cotton in this mat.

and the green was 22/2 cottolin in these pillow cases

And this pile for face cloth samples as I was developing the draft and technique. The pile warp was on the flanged beam. It had to be wound like any other warp with attention to the process, but with my technique the beam is allowed to feed yarn as you beat the loops. So very light tension to keep the beam from spinning but allowing take-up for the loops.

Posted on Fri, 11/13/2015 - 23:23

I have used the flanges for years. I have also used the raddle by AVL but have found out like ReedGuy that a reed is superior. Also I wind my warps super tight, no problems at all with the edges cutting through. I really like them.

Joneary, how about measuring the circumference of the beam and e-mailing AVL to see how much the cost, if they have any used ones, and if they even have any that would fit your loom?

Cathie

Posted on Sat, 11/14/2015 - 00:13

The owner showed me the invoice when she purchased the loom and flanges were listed but I didn't know there were missing until I got everything home.

Posted on Sat, 11/14/2015 - 08:37

My AVL came with flanges and I have always used them on the AVL.  Flawless warps.  

No one has mentioned that the warp beam has a slot and a stick that fits in the slot.  The stick goes in end loops of the warp, and after the warp is spread the stick goes in the sloth in the beam.  Then the flanges are attached at the edges of the warp and hold the stick, and the warp, in the slot.  Thus the warp is attached to the beam with NO knots, lumps or bumps.  Fairly high tension (higher than you will use weaving) while beaming and you have a wonderful smoothly wound beam.

I some times think I want flanges for my other looms, but alas they have other limitations too.

Posted on Sat, 11/14/2015 - 13:48

The last time I bought flanges for AVL they were for my 60" PDL. They look exactly like the ones I have for my 40" FDL except that they have a slot that does from the clamp through the disk(s). So I think That they are also for AVL Home looms or their looms that do not come with routed beams. So it is possible to put them on looms that don't have a routed space and wind a flat knotless beam. This means BTF warping and no tie-ons on the raddle cross end so you can space the raddle cross end evenly across the beam. Without a rear apron when you get to the end of your warp you will have to load the rear apron, lash on the warp beam stick and proceed. This is a bit wonky but you can do it and weave up to the heddle eye. 

Posted on Mon, 01/04/2016 - 23:47

I really like using them, warp goes on quickly and smoothly with no packing material. That said, I did without them for years. You must first be certain that your FDL has a newer plain beam, the original one is too small for the flanges. If you know someone handy with wood, they are easy to make for the smaller beam. See the Peggy Osterkamp explanation mentioned below.