Another sett question

Okay, here is another sett question...this time for 20/2 linen. I have linen from henrys attic..Normandy linen 100% line flax. I want to make the runner that is in the march April handwoven 1993 magazine on page 43. The pattern used 8/1 linen at 30 epi. For a mock damask weave that looks like it has a twill type threading arrangement.

I got 46 wraps per inch...if I half that I get 23 epi...but then it's a type of twill so I need it would you go up to 30 epi if you were me? Thanks for any help you can give me.


Posted on Fri, 07/29/2011 - 11:54

Sounds like a broken 1/3 twill (mock damask/false damask).

20/2 is a little finer than 8/1 (3000 ypp vs. 2400 ypp).  A calculated equivalent sett to 30 in the 8/1 is 33-34ish.  The ish comes in because one is a 2-ply and harder, and the other is a singles and more squishy.  The 2/3 wraps guideline (a different calculation than the one I used above) for twills gives you a similar number of 31. Experience (my own and others' published work) corroborates the general range of 28-36 for twills in 20/2 linen depending on the twill and the effect desired. I'd try a decent-sized (8x8" or so) sample at 32 and see if I liked it, then go looser or tighter (28 or 36) as needed to get the hand you want. 

Laurie Autio

Posted on Fri, 07/29/2011 - 15:41

Swedish references have higher setts.  20/2 is used at 30-40 epi.  But they weave on large counterbalance and countermarch looms.  If you are weaving on a table loom or a small jack floor loom, the lower setts are a better choice.  The width of the warp is also a factor.  Very wide warps might be better at a lower sett.