Need a new strategy

First chenille project.   I beamed 5 yds of 1450 ypp cotton chenille. Weaving width is currently 9".  Threading is plain weave over 4 shafts.  Sett is  currently 18, sleyed 1,2 in a 12 dent reed.  For the first scarf, the weft is the same as warp.  For the second, I planned to use the chenille with occasional picks of 5/2 tencel  (JOY Aziza).  Problem is, the warp is sticking badly in front of the insertion point for my weft, creating loops at the selvedge. 

I can re-sley 1-by-1 in a 16 dent reed, but that's the finest I've got.  I could also re-thread over 8 shafts. Would that help? Sizing the warp would be an unpaletable option.  Humidifier?






I am wondering if you aren't weaving with enough tension? The rayon chenille should be able to withstand a decent amount of tension. 

Also, try treadling "directly" to open the shed. (Make your tie up a direct lift plan.) Lift shaft 1 completely with treadle 1, then lift shaft 3 independently before thowing the shuttle. This usually works with sticky warps if there are not other issues involved.

You can always try using a weaving sword. That's just a beveled stick wider than your warp that clears the shed before throwing the shuttle.

Your sett should be fine at 18 for this yyp. Have you worked with rayon chenille before? It weaves tight and dense, feels a bit stiff off the loom, and then really lofts in the wash and dry process.

If any of these ideas don't work, post again!


If you change sheds when your beater is at the line of the fabric, it will help clean out the shed.  And yes, increase your tension.

Sally, I never need much encouragement to crank up the tension, so that's the first thing I'll try.  The warp is cotton, rather than rayon. 16 epi might be fine?  But it sounds like the problem is not from crowding in the reed.  I have plenty of swords, and can certainly switch to direct tie-up, but both solutions would take away from the rhythm of weaving on the floor loom I prize, and have been craving. Might have chosen the wrong loom for the project - live and learn.

Happy travels,



HI MaryMartha....cotton chenille is much heavier than rayon chenille and the pile tends to get sticky if it is too closely sett.  If you can resley to 16 epi in an 8 dent reed using 2 ends per dent, you will not have as much sticking.  Also, Dena's suggestion to change the shed while the beater is at the fell line is a good one.  One other thing to consider, since you are threaded on 4 shafts is to use a direct tie up and lift one shaft, then the second one with another treadle for each pick.  This will help open up the shed a bit.  

I think you will find a cotton chenille scarf is going to be quite heavy when completed.  I am not wanting to discourage you, but you might want to using Tencel for the entire weft instead of the cotton chenille.  Cotton chenille just does not have the drape and softness of rayon.  


I agree with Su - to increase the drape and decrease the weight of the cotton chenille, using Tencel for the weft is a really good idea.  :)





I should have specified - the goal is a warm winter scarf/shawl for outdoor wear.  The choice of cotton chenille was deliberate, and not entirely naive.  I have a 100% cotton chenille scarf from Avoca handweavers in Ireland as a model.  (Now that I look at the original, I realize it is a doubleweave tube closed off by a knotted fringe.)

Increased tension and beating on (opposite) open sheds helped somewhat with the sticking.  Still, direct tie-up is looking less unattractive.  Based on my sample, I can certainly afford to resley.

But color-wise, I'm hoping to stick with chenille weft. Highlights from the gold-orange handpainted tencel look really good against the deep eggplant chenille.  An all-tencel weft would be a different look entirely.  Unless I shrunk the grist of the weft and went warp-faced?  I've got some 10/2 almaza, but the color match is not as nice.

Thanks everybody - still having fun.



You might try applying a little cowboy magic detangler to make the warp threads slip more easily past each other.  I've used it for "fuzzy" woolen warps and it works great.  It only takes a little dab, it can be applied while on the loom, and it will wash out completely in wet finishing.  Never tried it on cotton, but don't see why it wouldn't work.

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