Another month is gone, We were pretty quiet in the March thread but I am interpreting that to mean we all too busy being weaverly to post. The projsects and activities that have been posted are impressive. You never cease to amaze me with your creativity and talent.  Weave on!

Comments

theresasc

I have finally finished my color challenge. I created a project page for it. Too bad I can no longer put a link in for it.

endorph

even got my warp wound out yet. My knee issues makes it uncomfortable to stand at the warping board. But it will get done!!

sally orgren

The icon selection for loading images will reappear.

And, why STAND at a warping board? I sit when warping. I discovered one of my guild mates thought the warp board had to be mounted to the wall and warped at shoulder level/eye height. She was raising her arm a lot, which could get tiring fast. I position mine so I am seated, and never raise my arm above my shoulder when warping. (I clamp the warp board to the side of my loom when warping, then remove it when done.)

Catrinka

I haven't been posting lately because I am so slow in warping, threading and beaming my recently purchased Norwood. I get discouraged and then give up for a few days, then back at it...read some more...back at it. Right now I am stuck on the apron rod, which is so close to the beam that there doesn't seem to be room to tie-on my threads which are patiently dangling from the reed in 20 thread bunches (200 ends total). I took pics but will have to figure how to add it. When I pull the apron (hefty stick kind) it sits on top of the beam with little room to extend it forward. I have left the cording as was when I got the loom, which had an old warp on it. Can anybody think of what might be wrong? TY

Catrinka

 

sorry, trying to post from FLICKR

Queezle

Hi Catrina,

I have not practical experience with norwood looms, but I will try to offer a bit of advice.

If the apron rod does not go far enough, can you let out a bit more of your warp? 

I attached my warp by lashing on, try googling "lash on weaving" and there are a number of blogs that clearly describe the process.  By lashing on, you can also add additional distance between your apron rod and your warp ends.

The beginning of weaving can be frustrating, but joy lies right around the corner.  Believe me, I've been in your shoes - warping frustration - before.  I find that there are usually several possible solutions in weaving, and that its quite forgiving.  Let us know how you are doing. The defects in Weavolution's system (for example photo uploading) need to be addressed ASAP. A new system has been promised for years now. Gentle encouragement to Erica and Oli might help.

Catrinka

thanks...I will try to find more about "lash on weaving."

I just want to weave, you know?

sally orgren

If the apron only goes so far, and doesn't reach the warp bouts, there are two solutions.

1) Add a rod inbetween. Lash the apron rod to that rod, and then tie on (or lash) the bouts to that intermediate rod.

2) Lash the warp bouts directly to the apron rod with a long slippery lashing cord.

I know a lot of weavers tie the bouts directly onto the rod, as I did when I first started weaving. However, I switched to lashing a number of years ago and find it faster, more accurate, and results in far less loom waste at the front of the loom (usually only 3-5"), regardless if the loom has an apron or not.

Below is a photo of warp bouts lashed directly to an intermediate rod, which is then lashed to the apron rod below.

In this particular photo, I was showing how to isolate a warp bout to correct a threading error, without losing your precise tensioning on all the other bouts (a common misconception about lashing.)

Good luck! This is only a minor bump in the road.

P.S. If your rod is big and oversized, it might be due for a replacement with a lower profile one.

sally orgren

I found logging out and back in, reactivated the photo load icons.

I load from my computer, and I downsample my images before loading, because the site can only take a 2 MB or less file size. (I shoot far higher resolution than that, so perhaps the site can't dumb down images uploaded from the cloud?) Sometimes I have trouble with loads from my phone as the images are more like 6 MB or higher. And I noticed I can load to one venue (Projects?) more consistently than the other (Forums?) from my phone. (It could be vice versa)

Below, an interesting "Turkish Tapestry" loom found at a local antique shop. At first I thought it might just be a display piece, but there is enough warp on there for a few more actual projects!

ShawnC

Took the 3rd and final panel off the loom for the skillbragd coverlet. I spent most of the last 4 months weaving it! I have mending, finishing, and sewing to do. But will make the deadline. Will work on loading a pic when it's completely finished.

Catrinka

This looks good and makes sense in terms of loom waste! If I can find suitable cord in the house, I will try lashing to my apron rod, which is a hefty rectangular stick, not a round rod. Thanks so much for the tips!

endorph

sitting and warping and did not find it comfrtable at all. I have my board hung at a height that I don't raise my arms above shoulder level when standing. Besides, sitting is almost as painful as standing so. . . I am going to try do just a few minutes at a time and see how that goes. The pain is much better and some days things almost feel normal but then. . . just wish they could figure out what was going on. . .

Nanna_P

new weaver.....I forgot to use paper when winding on my warp. Oops! Realized before tying on to front apron. Should I continue my project or try unwinding and place paper  on beam?

Sue in VT

There are lots of "threads" discussing warp separators here on weavolution. Would it be a short warp to unwind?  I wouldn't want to risk a lovely project by proceeding without. Just think, you'll gain experience in unwinding a warp and rebeaming!

Erica J

Endorph, I am sorry to hear your knee is keeping you from the warping board. Fortunately with mine they knew right away what the trouble was and sorted it out! I found I could only be at the warping board for a few mintues at a time, as well. But as I think we've all learned here in this group, even a few minutes a day add up quite quickly!

I am finally able to sit and thread my floor looms comfotably and am working on threading 26" of warp at the moment. Then I need to get onto warping just 6", but on the drawloom so it's the same as 12". It is also silk at 36 epi, so might as well be 26" too. :) So much fun so little time.

Oh yes and my friend won Crown Tournament in our medieval group last weekend, so I now find myself Crown Princess of Drachenwald. I am doing this with a friend, not Oli J, as between the 2 families we have 3 kids and quite busy work schedules and it is better to spread royal work between our 2 households. So you will still see me around the site, please do use one of our group boxes ([email protected]) or contact Oli directly if you need something specific that is site related!

sally orgren

Been there, done that! Anything less than 5 yards should be quick and easy.

First, shut and lock the door if you have pets or small kids! And make sure the floor in front of the loom is relatively clean. Re-introduce the lease sticks at the back, if they have been removed.

Next, I use water bottles clipped to the warp bouts at the front of the loom to gently guide the warps down to floor under slight tension. I make a string noose on the neck of each water bottle, then use a clothes pin to clip it quickly to a chunk of warp. This ensures you don't have to keep walking back and forth around the loom to release more warp, then tug it forward through the heddles and reed. You DO have to adjust the water bottles a few times during the process when they reach the floor.

I don't chain or bundle the warp bouts at all as they come off the front, as it is just another opportunity to introduce tangles. I just let them pile naturally on the floor at the front of the loom, and adjust the bottles if needed. When the end is reached, I start with a layer of sticks, then proceed to the stiff packing paper. In rebeaming, when the water weights reach the breast beam, I lower them back down to just clear the floor. This keeps exactly even tension on all the warps when beaming, and under tension, they won't be as likely to snag in the reed or heddles.

It usually takes very little time to unwind and rewind with this method. Good luck! Happy weaving later makes the time spent worth it.

dyetoweave

Just today I signed n to Weavolution after about 1 1/2 year absence.  Does anyone know--is there a  "For Sale or Trade" forum?  I found a page, but there's a notice that says "you can not post any content,"  and I can not find any tab to offer posting items for sale.  Thanks for any news about this forum.

Sue in VT

Slowly but steadily I've regained control of my overshot warp. Entered my discomfort zone and made repair heddles and weighted six ends midway on my warp. All was well, but then, despite the fact that overshot doesn't need floating selvedges, my current edges were terrible on one side. Then I noticed my last dent had only one thread on that side (can't explain why I thought that would be ok) so I stopped, cut off the six inch beginning, removed the thread from the single dent and floated the outside threads on both sides. Began again, edgestitched, and the new selvedge looks nice. This particular warp has been a series of careless actions, but I will persevere!  The good news- I used the cut piece as a sample (which I never do), washed it, and have a better idea of how the finished piece will perform. 

Joanne Hall

Sue, are you using a temple?  That usually solves selvage problems.  Sometimes selvage threads become loose when you are not using a temple, as a weaver may leave the weft loose at the selvage to avoid draw-in.  Loose weft at the selvage means that there is no take up in the warp and so, the warp threads become loose.

Joanne

Sue in VT

Joanne, yes now I always use a temple. The culprit for me was the dent with only one thread while all others had three. So I had this spider web looking edge and so that's why I cut and did what I noted above. Glad I keep a project journal. This ones a doozie!

Erica J

It is now a group instead of a forum. We have done this for consistency across the site. Forums and groups are generally the same, but groups have more functionality. The group can be found here; https://weavolution.com/group/saletrade

Erica J

I have been exploring Egyptian/Finnish Diagonals. I love the versatility of this tablet weaving set up.

Bright Blue and Pink Diagonal tablet weaving

Catrinka

Just wanted to let you know I did the lashing, and it worked! Of course not nearly as neat and even as yours is. Then I discovered that I had forgotten to reattach the heddle bars to the spring-clips and that took awhile. Plodding on...many thanks!

Joanne Hall

This does not sound to me like it would cause a problem and it often occur when you have an odd number of warp ends. In fact, some weavers do this on purpose. And then there are some who double the selvage threads. So, watch carefully to see if the problem occurs again. It might have had a different cause. This weaving analysis can sometimes be complicated. Joanne

Sue in VT

Joanne, I'm wondering if my temple was part of the problem. The smallest setting on my wooden temple is 20", but my runner is 19 3/4". I should have anticipated this and added some extra edge tabby but didn't. When I engage the temple it's an uncomfortable stretch, but the stretched edges seem to settle down once they're out of the temple. I never leave it engaged unless I'm weaving.  I can add that to the issues I've created on this project!

Joanne Hall

It could be the problem, but you said that it was only one side that had a problem.  And if you can describe what the problem was, perhaps we can understand it a little better.

However, getting a 16-23 inch temple might be the solution.  They last forever, so it is a good investment. 

Joanne

sally orgren

In Project posts, under "notes", apparently one can no longer add images embedded with the notes? The icon bar has disappeared, and even logging off and back in, it did not re-appear. I think this would be valuable to reinstate.

 

Edited 4/17/17 The image load reappeared for project notes. Yay!

Missus T.

The net curtains that I finished a few days ago have been hanging, unhemmed, in my living room for a few days before hemming.  I have been enjoying the play of light through them, and the extra opacity in comparison with some other sheers which had been hanging there.  I moved them up to my husband's office because they complement the wall color there, and he was thrilled.... and "ordered" another set to fill in the window. 

It took me five minutes to measure and get the new warp calculated and ordered.... very motivating to have a happy customer!

For this next warp, which is 12 1/2 yards, I will be using a trapeze following all of your good information on this subject from last year....

Happy holidays to everyone!

Erica J

Sally, these type of things really are bugs in the software updates put out by the software manufacturers. We have not changed anything on this site. I know they are irritating, but there isn't anything we can do to "reinstate" it. I just checked safari and it still displays the image insert and other editing buttons. I'm not exactly sure which Windows browsers would be a good option right now.

Erica J

I managed to finish my Egyptian Diagonals sample. I am using the circular warp method to wind another warp. I either need to find my other lot of 2/12 Gemstone silk in yellow, or be OK with my next bit of tablet weaving only being 9 cards again. We'll see what tomorrow brings.

I also managed to make some progress on threading the 24" wide diamond twill. This one is going a little bit at a time as I get time, which the regulars here will see is not too often. :)

Have a great weekend everyone!

sally orgren

I am 20" away from taking this wool warp off the loom! (That's always the magic moment, isn't it?)

https://weavolution.com/project/sally-orgren/sample-exchange-ewbm-jhw

Sue in VT

I get so psyched when a project is done!  I call Bob into the studio to see it coming off the beam!  Looking forward to your finished blanket pix!

Missus T.

Good morning, weavers, and Happy Spring!

The re-order of Swedish 20/6 cotton rug warp arrived from Vavstuga and I am about half way through the new 12.5m warp.  I love the 3m Toika mill.  It removes a lot of the repetitive strain of warping.  I brought in my soft chef's mat from the kitchen to stand on, so I am perfectly pampered.  You will note the lonely cone on the cone stand and the single end trailing off the reel.  Paddle winding is on my bucket list, but I opted to make the warp singly so that I could remove every knot.  I have encountered only 3 knots so far, and I wonder how I would cope with these if warping with a paddle...  I fear that I would get totally lost!  With single end warping, I have the luxury of backing up and removing the offending section.  Since this is to be a net curtain, having knots in the fabric is not acceptable.  I found out how hard it was to correct broken warps in a net fabric with the last warp!  So, slow and steady!

Have a wonderful day, everyone!

Toika 3m Warping Mill in action on a 12 m warp

laurafry

I am finally getting back into the studio on a regular basis  Tackling the seemingly never ending warp on the AVL. About 35 yards to go so with any luck I can get it off soon-ish. :).  And then I get to put something else on.  Wonder what it will be?  :D

Missus T.

Hi Erica,

Finnish diagonals are in my future -- I am inspired by your weaving!  I love the portability of your box, and wondered if you found the plans on line or just finagled it yourself.  I think that I could make one of these, but I wondered if you could upload pics of the ends... sometime? 

Susan

sally orgren

For May flowers, and the inspiration of Springtime!

Erica J

Susan,

Oliver makes my band looms. They are pretty easy to makes. I'll have him send you sketch.

Group Audience