If one googles 'baby wrap dimension' there are quite a few sites where things like standard dimensions are listed. Depends if she wants a sling type (shortest) or the style of wrapping done. The longest is 4.8 meters, if I remember correctly, with several shorter ones. Also depends on whether a straight or tapered end is wanted. Most wraps have different coloured selvedges so that the wrapper can tie the wrap without twisting it, which can make an uncomfortable 'lump'. And the centre should be marked in some way so that it is easier to fit and tie.
I am so far behind where I wanted to be at this point in the year. :( But I have company coming Aug. 9 and we have day trips planned. :) Now for the weather to co-operate...
The next month will be busy - on Aug 23 I leave for Cape Breton to join in the Gathering of the Weavers (and teach a three day class on lace weaves). By the time I get home, it will be the end of August! Where does the time go...?
i have two looms, the AVL with all the bells and whistles and very noisy. The Leclerc Fanny. Very quiet but just four shafts. And, in the long run, harder on my body than the AVL. I find myself, in my 66th year, vacillating between which loom I could keep should we decide to downsize. And eventually coming to the same conclusion...I'm not moving until I am done, done, with weaving. :-/
I have been steaming (pretty much literally, as the humidity is 'high' for us) through the new scarf line. I'm now seeing the light at the end of the tunnel. There are six more warps wound, and once they are woven, this series will be ended. And then, hopefully, I can get back to writing, and a few other things that need doing. I had hoped to use up a box of yarn, but I kept finding more hidden away in nooks and crannies - so it feels like I have been weaving my fingers to the bone - and still have full boxes! (sigh)
For cotton I use the hottest water available, a soap/detergent, give it a good agitation to help the threads fall into their 'proper' place (especially for weave structures like waffle weave or lace weaves). I tend to *not* soak unless I am positive there is no fugitive dye. If there is, rinse, rinse, rinse. The hot water will usually trigger any loose dye molecules so they can be rinsed out.
A salad spinner can help with water extraction, then smooth flat, dry until damp and finally a good hard press to help lock the threads into place. Unless you want to preserve 3D as in waffle weave.
ps - whether you use soap or detergent will depend on your water - if you have soft water (no minerals) soap is good. If your water is 'hard' (minerals natrually occuring), use a detergent with no whiteneres, no brighteners, no scents. Many people like to use synthropol, Orvus Paste or the blue Dawn liquid dish soap
All fibres/yarns will benefit from wet finishing. The steps are simple, but can be applied to a variety of degrees, depending (there's that word again!)
Not all wools will full, but they will bloom. All yarns will benefit from scouring (removing any spin oil or other 'dirt'), then agitation (to more or less degree) which will help the yarn slip to areas of least resistance (which is where slight inconsistencies in beat and reed marks tend to reduce if not disappear entirely). Wools that will full can be fulled to greater or lesser degree depending on the effect desired.
Sometimes a good hard press will help to 'lock' the warp/weft into place, especially in the case of yarns that don't full - like cotton/linen/silk. A hard press will also increase shine on those yarns where we look for shine - like linen, silk, rayons.