Kid silk haze
Percentage: 30
Percentage: 70
Brocade boat shuttles
These are custom brocade shuttles built to a similar size as the ones shown on the Fondazione Arte della Seta Lisio website (Italy). The short one is 4" long x 1" wide x 3/4" high The long one is 5" long with the other dimensions the same. I used walnut burl and bird's eye maple for the woods, and stainless steel for the bobbin rods and yarn-hole fittings. No one sells bobbins this small, so I also made those with narrow carbon-fiber shafts and hard-maple rims. These tiny brocade shuttles appear to be better known in Europe, whereas the little stick or card shuttles are commonly used in the US for brocade weaving. They can be wound with a double-ended bobbin winder or with a special fitting for a mechanical Swedish quill winder. (note: the runner that the shuttles are sitting on is a 16 harness weave structure done on an AVL compu-dobby 3 loom. The repeat has 16 picks)
Jeanne's Scarf
this really shrank in width once I did a wet finish on it
I used a 12 dent on it
used 94 ends
Black Tan Shawl
The nubby fiber is impossible to tie in a knot at the fringes. I then sewed the ends on the sewing machine to secure and hand twisted the fringe.
Shrink-ruffled HalloWeave scarf
This project is likely to go in fits and starts as it bumps its way through my October calendar.... The goal is a ruffly scarf in silk and merino, with the ruffles coming completely from differential shrinkage. The silk is tussah handspun: 2-ply, fairly smooth, with some colour variegations just for fun. The wool is merino handspun: 2-ply, about the same diameter as the silk yarn, and unwashed (I usually wash my yarns after spinning but decided I'd get a better "felty" response if I didn't wash this one).
When I first started thinking about this, I mentally rummaged through my stash and discovered that though I had lots of silk yarns on hand, there were no sure-to-shrink wool ones. Quickly (before I could discourage myself), I realized that I did have lots and lots of merino roving in my stash box -- and hey, how long could it possibly take to spin enough yarn to weave a scarf anyway? (The answer: one full evening. How easy is that?!)
After spinning the yarn, I suddenly started wondering if perhaps the merino roving was actually a Superwash wool. It felt like regular merino in my hands, but you can't always tell by feel whether or not it's Superwash (that would be terrible for a differential shrinkage project, because it wouldn't shrink at all!). So, just to ease my mind... I pulled a bunch of wool out of the bag, got a bowl of hot, soapy water, and set about felting. Fifteen minutes later, the delightful conclusion proclaimed itself: it shrinks!! :-)
That was the first wave: draft, yarns, and felt sample. Next up: warping and a sample!
23 October 2011 -- Finally, some progress to report! My original plan was to weave a scarf in twill, but the loom I was unearthing for that purpose has been committed to another task (a sample exchange that had slipped my mind), so I decided to weave a first, smaller scarf in tabby. Because the floats won't be as long as in the originally-planned twill, I've set the merino section at 8 epi -- a set which would be close to sleazy in normal circumstances, but should help the shrinky-ruffly effect here by giving the merino lots of room to move. The silk stripes on either side of that central merino stripe are set at 16 epi.
Warping went quickly, and after an evening's weaving I'm nearly halfway through the warp! It feels just wonderful -- and I hope it shrinks as nicely as I've imagined. Weaving up at this rate, I'll be able to see how it comes through the wash before the week's over.
(This is exciting!)
26 October 2011 -- It's done, and it ruffled!! After I cut it off the loom, it measured 2m32 long (excluding fringe). I twisted the fringe (4 ends per twisty group) and knotted it, then set about fulling....
Having never used my washing machine for serious fulling (and being impatient to see the result!), I fulled the scarf in the bathroom sink, using the "gather it up and fling it down" method. To wit: get the scarf thoroughly wet in hot soapy water, squeeze just enough water out so you won't drench yourself, then fling it into the bottom of the sink. Gather it quickly up into a bunch, then fling it down again. Re-dip in the hot soapy water from time to time. When it starts looking pretty good, give it a cool rinse and examine the progress; then repeat the fulling actions until it's done.
I don't have a dryer, so the scarf dried on a sweater rack, then I lightly pressed the silk ruffle. It's pretty nice. :-)
Now I want to do another!
Shifu scarf with hand-dyed silk warp
October 4th: I tried three setts for the silk warp during the sampling stage and finally settled on 40 epi, doubled to result in 20 working ends per inch. On the shifu sample (shown above) this set shows off the dyed patterns on the warp but also allows the hand-twisted/spun kozo paper yarn to show through. The four rigid heddles on The Quad loom were threaded in a straight draw, which gave me many weave structure options. Dyeing the silk warp in sections on the loom was great fun. I liked the result so much that I turned the sample into a wall hanging, which I call "Blueberry Field--First Snow" (lots of very colorful blueberry fields at this time of year here in Oregon). I dyed some of the paper yarn weft, too, which works fine for a wall hanging but would not be so good for an object that will be washed. My order of hand-made kozo/mulberry paper arrived yesterday morning from Thailand, right on time for the start of the Halloweave event. All afternoon, as I cut the paper and twisted it into yarn, I was humming, "Let's twist again, like we did last summer. . . ."
October 10th: The Witch's Brew group meeting yesterday on Webex inspired me to get busy twisting/spinning more kozo paper yarn for weft. I can't do manual twisting or spinning due to a wrist injury, but using an electric device to "spin" is no problem. I've used drills and bobbin winders before. My latest--and favorite--weft twisting device is an old sewing machine that was given to me by a member of the local freecycle group. It doesn't work for sewing, but, after a few minor adjustments, it works great for spinning. The shifu yarn varies in diameter from about the size of 10/2 cotton to about that of 20/2 silk.
October 16th: The Quad rigid heddle loom is warped. I used my "broomstick method" of direct warping, which keeps the warp tension very even during the wind-on process. (It seemed especially appropriate to use the broomstick method for a Witch's Brew project!) Since I'm using the 20/2 silk warp yarn double in the four heddles, I didn't need to cut the loops to sley the heddles.
October 20th: Several factors came together to help me decide what to do for my project. My dare is to use lots of color--especially
the warm colors, which I usually avoid. The sample started me
thinking about leaves changing color in the fall. I wanted to make
something for my friend, who practices Zen Buddhism. I thought of the brightly colored robes Tibetan monks wear, and I remembered a story my friend told me about how Buddha became enlightened while sitting under a bo tree. Hmmm. So I decided to make a scarf for my friend that incorporates the yellows, oranges, and reds of the robes, and that uses the bo leaf as the main image. (Bo leaves also change color in the fall.) What should I call a Halloweave project based on this design? BO!!!
October 22nd: I've finally taken a picture of BO!!! that doesn't end up as one big glare (the silk warp is soooo shiny). I'm really liking this project. I need to remind myself over and over again to use lots of color. I usually mix about 25 ml of Colorhue dye with 2 ounces of water, but I'm using twice that strength for this project. The colors look way too intense when I first "paint" the silk warp, but, as soon as I start weaving, the natural colored kozo paper weft mellows them.
October 25th: Several people have asked for pictures of my twisting/spinning set up, so I've added two. The first shows the old sewing machine, which was given to me, set on end with the modifications in place. The second shows the modifications: a pen top wedged over the bobbin winder, and a chopstick inserted into the pen cap. I hold strips of kozo/mulberry paper in my left hand and spin them off the end of the chopstick (my right wrist is the one that was injured, so I've become something of a "lefty" over the years). The sewing machine's foot pedal allows me to start, stop, and adjust the spinning speed. Total cost of this great device: $0.
October 29th: Total warp waste for this project: Zero. Zilch, nada, zed. I used my broomstick method of direct warping the rigid heddle loom, so all of the warp end loops were completely even after winding on--there was no need for trimming to even them up (and the warp tension was nice and even, too). Because I used a single loop of 20/2 silk warp for each working end, I didn't need to cut the loops when I sleyed the four rigid heddles. And the warp tied on to the front and back tie-on bars is fringe for the scarf, so there was no waste there. For someone who loves silk as much as I do, and who tries to conserve resources as much as I do, this total lack of waste is a big plus.
I love how soft the scarf is, and--though I never expected that this true blue fan of cool colors would say it--I even like the way the reds and oranges and yellows turned out. So my dare--to use lots of color and lots of intense color--was met. The scarf glows, and it feels as light as a happy thought.
The "Shacket", shawl or jacket
Hand woven, plain weave structure with inlay. This was woven at total random; placing colors and textures next to each other much like painting an abstract painting. Finish by hemming ends and washing on delicate in washer, drying in dryer until damp and then ironing. I made 5" tassles ties and placed them on two bottom corners and about 1/3 up from bottom to tie and wear as a long flowy jacket. Untied, the piece can be folded many different ways and worn as a shawl...be creative to create "the look" you want. Fiber content; silk, rayon, cotton and micro fiber. Finished 41″ square. 2011 www.sdoakdesigns.com



