My first backstrap weaving project: a backstrap from the Weavezine article Backstrap Basics.
Made from stash yarn.
Helena (Telaranha) has been posting wonderful projects with beautiful designs of the Huni Kuin people of tropical Brazil and Peru and I chose one of the designs to make this bag wth supplementary weft patterning. This is not the weaving technique employed by the Huni Kuin people and I adapted the design to weft inlay. Since going to Guatemala in 2008, I have been wanting to do more with supplementary weft patterning and recently made a table runner with a Central Asian motif using this method.
I blogged today about the use of this technique here in Bolivia and about how I learned to weave it in Guatemala with lots of nice pictures of my teacher and her textiles. I hope you will take a look. :-)
I was inspired by designs in Joanne Hall's Mexican Tapestry Weaving book to make another set of mug rugs, this time with a Mexican theme and then, while thinking about more projects to make with 12 wpi cotton in double weave, I came up with a matching hot pad. I wove all on my backstrap loom-big bold and spicy!.
I f you would like a better look at the motifs and the pattern chart for the hotpad, check out my latest blog post where I also give a tutorial on making continuous string heddles. There are photos of my indigenous teachers showing how they make their heddles too.
Check out my blog on backstrap weaving!
With a little help from a friend (above), I created a tutorial on putting together a backstrap loom on my blog today. I covered this in my article on WeaveZine, but as the name of the article implies, (Backstrap Basics) I didn't cover all the details and refinements. So, they are now there on my blog with lots of photos.
There are also photos and information about the weavers of Potolo here in Bolivia and the strange and complex designs they create in their weavings.
I hope you will take a look. :-)
Playing and experimenting with balanced weaves on my backstrap loom, I made a black and white pinwheel piece without a rigid heddle and then this red and white one with the aid of the rigid heddle to help with maintaining warp spacing. Both pieces were successful but using the rigid heddle was more relaxing (not having to be constantly checking those rogue warps that want to squirm over into warp face) despite having to cut and thread the ends.
Woven with 12 wpi merc cotton and the 7.5dpi heddle.
Using the simple warp float patterning, that you can learn with the Backstrap Weaving Group's second beginner tutorial, I made a placemat and two matching mug rugs on my backstrap loom. The knot design on the placemat is adpated from a design I saw here at Weavolution's project page on a card woven band and fell in love with. I tried to reproduce a segment of the design on the mug rugs in double weave.
I would love to see those who have been following the tutorial in the Backstrap Group also using the technique for wider pieces rather than just bands. and I hope this project inspires you!
I posted to my blog today about weaving wider pieces on the backstrap loom with pictures of some other placemats that I have made using this patterning technique. I hope you will visit my blog and check it out. :-)
I made a new backstrap loom today. I found and sanded all the wood with 220 grit sandpaper, oiled it all with funature oil (some kind of lemon oil) .
I wanted a backstrap, but braiding all the ends of the fringes seemed too "fiddlly" to me. looking at pictures online, I noticed that some of the backstraps used in the orient seemed to have a stick with a center rope to attach to the beams rather than a cord run through a set of loops.
I found some 'paint rod extenders' with screw tips at a store called "big lots" that sells odd lots and close out merchandise. They looked perfect for narrow backstrap warps. I had a 1" dimeter dowel standing in the corner, slightly warped from standing on end. I cut the 48" down to two 22" lengths and drilled 1/4" holes 1/2" from each end. I drilled holes in all my wood peices 1/2" from the end so I could easliy tie things down if I wanted too. It took me about 2 hours to do the sanding/hole drilling.
I set up the 2 small 6" dowel pieces by attaching a tie to the center. Then I tied scrap yarn to the ends of the 6" dowel and taped the yarn down to the table so that the dowel peices were 24" apart, but could flop up and down. I taped the center of my rope down to the table and proceded to tie the warps to the dowel peices with larks head knots or half hitches as if I were attaching heddles. When I was done putting the warps in; I took the free ends and wove them back to the middle with plain weave. I finished by crossing the ends and hidding them in the weave.
The macrame yarn that I used I found at a yard sale.It is about 3 ends per inch or about 1/4" diameter. It is streachy and scratchy to handle. 100 feet of cotton clothes line could also be used.
it took me about 3 hours to do the fingerweaving. (3 disks of my book on tape) I did set up string heddles to make changeing sheds eaiser as I wove from the ends to the middle. For the last few picks, I just shoved the knot inbetween the wefts.
Overall the efective width on the long beam is 20" and the short beams is 11"
These were made as an attempt to find a small useful project using medium to heavy weight yarn as a second or third project for students of this double weave technique.
I have blogged about this here.......
While I am here let me extend this invitation to one and all to visit my first blog!
I hope you will be frequent visitors and perhaps leave me comment or two. :-)