Muga Silk Shawl

Bonnie Datta's picture
Embroidery on the loom
Project
Project Status: 
Finished
Yarn
Yarn:
Color:
Type:
Loom
Number of Shafts: 
4
Number of Treadles: 
4
Notes: 

Working with this muga silk was quite a challenge.  It took more than a month to make the warp and get the loom threaded.  The yarn is wiry but very light and wispy.  Once under tension it behaved beautifully -- very strong and with enough elasticity that it held up really well.  The weft is 2-ply silk that I dyed with natural dyes that grow here on my farm -- woad, safflower, tansy.  I had many colors but not much of each, so I opted to mix wide and narrow stripes using randomly selected colors.  I did a little on-loom embroidery at each end.  The weave structure was a broken 4-point twill, and the sett was 36 (2-strand) working ends per inch.  The warp was sleyed into an 18dpi reed, with 4 working ends in a dent alternating with an empty dent -- I have found that this is a great way to get good drape.  The black photo shows the structure more clearly.  I had enough warp to weave this second shawl using black Jaggerspun wool/silk as weft.

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Evelyn's picture
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Joined: 06/08/2009
Beautiful subtle colours and

Beautiful subtle colours and I love the embroidery.

Sally Orgren's picture
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Joined: 06/08/2009
I too, have woven with muga

I too, have woven with muga silk. It was an extraordinary project and I enjoyed using the materials very much. The subtle color was so luminous and rich!

countessinn's picture
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Joined: 03/22/2010
Beautiful work!  Where did

Beautiful work!  Where did you get the muga silk?  I can't find it anywhere nearby.  Did you have to order it from India?

 

 

Bonnie Datta's picture
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Joined: 06/08/2009
Thanks to all

I appreciate each of you looking and commenting.

I bought the muga when I was in Assam last fall.  I too have tried to find an on-line source, but no luck so far.  I have contacts who might be able to get me some, but I'm not holding my breath.  If I hear further about that I'll see if I can get more than I need and then I'll advertise it here.

Bonnie.

 

dteaj's picture
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Joined: 06/08/2009
Lovely project. Beautiful

Lovely project. Beautiful colors and detail work.

Treenway silks has some thicker spun muga at 6800yd/lb, in case anyone is interested.

debmcclintock's picture
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Joined: 06/08/2009
Nice work at the dyepot, so

Nice work at the dyepot, so many colors, beautifully combined.  

Now let me get this straight, you sleyed 4 ends and skipped a dent and sleyed 4 more?  When you wet finish do you find most of the dent marks disappear?  Or are you willing to live with them for the drape?  I do not see dent marks in the cloth so I assume the cloth shifted.  Neat solution for drape!  Deb Mc

Bonnie Datta's picture
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Joined: 06/08/2009
Dent marks

Hi Deb.  The spaces where the empty dents were do close up a bit.  You can see in the photo with the black weft that there are black pin-stripes running lengthwise -- these are the wefts floating over the spaces.

I fulled both of these by hand.  BTW, the black weft is Jaggerspun wool/silk.  When I washed it the water turned to INK.  I was afraid the shawl would come out gray, but it seems OK.  Still, for such expensive yarn that seems to be a big boo-boo.

Bonnie.