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Kromski Harp Question

RV-Weaver's picture

Hi, I just received my Kromski Harp - 16".

The video shows using a candle to melt the cords together.  Is there a better way to do it than that?

These are the cords that go around each end to hold the dowel to the warp.  I don't know the exact name.

Glenda

 

Lynnhelen's picture
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Joined: 06/08/2009
Glenda, I too have a new

Glenda,

I too have a new Kromski. The best way to melt them is with a candle. They take a few seconds to "melt" together. Some friendly advice: make sure all the strings are exactly the same size! Mine were off just a bit and it will throw your warp off. I also repalced my wooden dowels with metal ones. Although the company replaced my extremley warped wooden dowels  the metal seem to work better for me.

Good luck with your new Harp!

Lynn

jread's picture
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Joined: 06/08/2009
I used a candle also.  It was

I used a candle also.  It was very quick, though I did burn myself just a bit the first time I touched the melted ends to press and smooth the join - I learned quickly to wait a second or two!  But they hardened very fast, so I couldn't wait too long.  The candle smoke also blacked the ends, but I put the ends inside the dowel holes so the less attractive joins aren't showing.

And I second the comment to make sure they are all the same length, exactly.  A half inch makes a difference!

I've had my 24" Harp for just a few weeks and really love it!

- Johnna

Joined: 06/08/2009
The candle was the easiest

The candle was the easiest way to maintain a steady upright source of heat.  I used a big pillar candle and found it extremely well suited to the task.

Good luck!  I love my Kromski Harp!

Claudia Segal's picture
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Joined: 05/13/2009
Me, too, or should I say me

Me, too, or should I say me four or five.  I used a big pillar candle and found it quite easy.  You do need to be sure they are all the same length before you start but it works really well.

I see we have a few Kromski Harp fans, I'm definitely in love with mine.  I have travelled with it a few times and used it in the car.  It took me a project or two to get the hang of the tension but now it's wonderful.  I weaving a shawl the full width of the loom and the selvedges look very nice. 

 

RV-Weaver's picture
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Joined: 06/08/2009
What is the reason for using

What is the reason for using metal dowels?

Glenda

RHweaver's picture
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Joined: 06/08/2009
The wooden dowels tend to

The wooden dowels tend to warp, at least if you use a lot of tension as I do.  And I think they warp if you leave a warp on the loom for a long time at tension too.

I've replaced my wooden dowels with aluminum rods, as my dowels were warped.  I weave at pretty high tension since I'm usually weaving with cotton, and I tend to leave the same project on the loom for a long time (I'm talking MONTHS as I tend to flit from project to project on different looms/crafts) though I do try to remember to ease up on the tension a bit when I'm not actually weaving.

RV-Weaver's picture
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Joined: 06/08/2009
Thanks! Glenda

Thanks!

Glenda

RV-Weaver's picture
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Thanks everyone! Glenda

Thanks everyone!

Glenda

Diaspora's picture
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Joined: 05/29/2009
I bought some texsolv ladder

I bought some texsolv ladder cord and dumped the cord that came with the Harp. I bought it at fibrecrafts in the UK but I'm sure it would be readily available in any country.

eggplantlady's picture
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Joined: 08/19/2009
I also found this more

I also found this more difficult than necessary.  They should have been able to supply the necessary number of LOOPS.  I burned myself, and have since had 2 'joins' come undone.  I do want to say, however, that I love the Harp:  it is beautifully constructed and fun to use.

knit1girl1's picture
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Joined: 06/08/2009
I'll just second the texsolve

I'll just second the texsolve as I got some at WonderWool in Wales, can't remember who from. It's dead easy to use as you just thread the thread through the holes. It does slip a bit in tension but that's probably just my knots.

I've got a 24" Harp and love it. It just looks fab when it's warped up.

jenadina's picture
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Joined: 06/09/2009
Where do you get aluminum

Where do you get aluminum rods from?

quejimenez's picture
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Joined: 09/17/2009
 i'm sure i'm a bit late to

 i'm sure i'm a bit late to chim in here...

i just received my 32" harp monday...and am already deep into my first project which is the rigid heddle beginner's wal

i melted my ends too...it wasn't too hard...but it still was a "why do  i have to do this...why didn't this just come done" thing. i tried as best as possible to make sure that they were all the same size but that was a bit difficult...they are all generally the same size...i think i had one that melted down too fast and ended up being a smidgen (1/4") short...none of them are off that much...so far i haven't had a problem...and i'm hoping it stays that way...

i too weave with very tight tension...so i'll be keeping the metal dowels in the back of my mind...i have noticed that they do warp a bit when in use...

all and all i will say that i absolutely love my harp...hands down i adore it and am most happy with my decision to get this on over the flip...

kiandra

Joined: 06/20/2009
Does this loom have the

Does this loom have the built-in warping board that I have been hearing about? Does anyone have a picture of this built-in warping board to post? (even if it is on another loom)

Laverne

 

jenadina's picture
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Joined: 06/09/2009
Yeah, this is the one. 

Yeah, this is the one.  Here's a link with pics: www.newvoyager.com/rigidheddlelooms.html

 

Joined: 06/20/2009
Thanks Jen! Oh bummer I wish

Thanks Jen! Oh bummer I wish my Ashford had that. Maybe I could rig up something on the Ashford frame-it's a very nifty idea for someone like me with NO ROOM. I just ordered the stand for my 32'' Ashford today-early Christmas present! I am hoping it is collapsable.......but suspect it isn't .Where am I going to put it?

BTW..... about the pvc pipe warping board that you showed me-it needs to be glued, right? So you can't just take it to pieces and store it away?

jenadina's picture
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Joined: 06/09/2009
Yeah, the Kromski is nice

Yeah, the Kromski is nice where space is concerned what with the folding and the warping board.

Do you have the regular Ashford or the Knitter's Loom?

Personally, I'd love to have any of the above, but especially the Kromski.

Joined: 06/20/2009
I have the regular Ashford. I

I have the regular Ashford. I was in Australia, didn't do ANY homework and just went straight out and bought it. I guess I was kind of partial to Ashford just because they are from New Zealand-neighbors and all. Plus they have a ''rep'' in Chile but, as it turns out, this so-called rep doesn't respond to any enquiries.

DJCNOR's picture
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Joined: 06/08/2009
   I have a Kromski harp

 

 I have a Kromski harp loom, too. I bought it specifically because of its warping board capability, but also because I teach individual weaving students, and it makes a very good starting and lending  loom with its folding capability. Since I use the warping board to wind warps for my floor loom, I wish I could wind warps longer than 4 1/2 yards, but I'm generally pretty happy with it.

Donna

sandeleh's picture
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Joined: 06/12/2009
I have the Ashford RH with

I have the Ashford RH with stand, and while the stand is easy enough to disassembe, it's not really colapsable unless you take the side pieces apart.  The legs are sort of U-shaped and make up front and back leg for each side and then there are cross pieces that keep the stand and loom stable while you weave.   The cross piece on the back of the legs attaches with bolts and knobs, so it is easy to tighten when it gets loose.  The loom fits into slots on the legs and has the same bolt and handle that can be tightened when loose or loosened to take the loom off the legs.

here is the stand without the loom

the knobs are kinda hard to see on the above photo, but are the black blobs at the tops of the legs.  The piece of wood across the bottom of the stand (on the floor) just lays there and I have broken one end off by stepping on it.  Oops...  Anway, if I still had that piece I think my loom and stand would not be as wobbly as they are.  When I'm weaving, I tend to put a foot on each bottom piece of the legs and to tighten up the knobs if I feel the loom wobble when I beat.

BTW - after having the loom for some years now, I've done away with the Ashford "warp sticks" and tie the apron rods directly to the warp and cloth beams.  Easier and only 1 set of ties to worry about being the same length.

Sande

Joined: 06/20/2009
Thanks for that Sande. My

Thanks for that Sande. My stand is on its way and I should have it next week. I got it from Nancy at The Woolery who was wonderful. Where am I going to put this stand???????heaven knows-it may have to hang from the ceiling! I would also like to add something to my comment above about Ashford's Chilean rep-I did get a response but not soon enough as I had already decided to buy from the US. I will happily buy from him next time I need Ashford products.

Thanks for the tip about the ''warp sticks''.

knitsalot's picture
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Joined: 11/02/2009
I busted one of the cords on

I busted one of the cords on my first project, I am hoping that the length won't change much if I melt another join into it.   If it does, I may replace the cord loops with something like cable ties, which my husband buys in bulk.....

 

Also, I started a separate Weavolution group for Kromski Rigid Heddle looms, if anyone else wants to join. I somehow missed this group in the first search I did, but I'm glad I found it as it seems to be very active and helpful to beginners like me.

 

Joanne

Claudia Segal's picture
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Joined: 05/13/2009
Hey Joanne, There are lots of

Hey Joanne,

There are lots of Harp users here, welcome.  I'll go join the Kromski group, too.

As for the cords, you can also get in touch with New Voyager Trading or just buy some nylon cord.  I keep tons of the nylon cord because I use it to lash on my warps.  I bought a roll at the local hardware store for very little money.

It is very important that the cords be the exact same length.  If you are a quarter inch off it will have a very negative effect on the warp tension.  If you shorten one, shorten them all or just use a different method for attaching the apron bar onto the beam and not worry about it.  Even tension is everything so be careful

Claudia, RH group moderator

quejimenez's picture
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Joined: 09/17/2009
 Claudia, i took your advice

 Claudia,

i took your advice concerning my irregular nylon cords on my harp and yesterday morning sat myself down and fixed them up. it wasn't as bad as i thought it was going to be and i came away with a bit of a trick to do it (at least to me). maybe this will help other kromski harp newbies/owners.

What i did to get even tie on strings:

first off, the first time i did the burning and connecting i got most of them "about" the same size...and figured it was okay...well thanks to claudia, after my first project (which did have some tension issues...which i thought it was because of my inexperience...but was probably because of my strings) i decided to re-burn...and it wasn't as hard as i thought...

i took out my quilters pressing board (basically a padded ironing surface), grabbed some quilting pins and pinned all the loops down...and stretched them out...and measured them using the guides on the pressing board.

from there i was able to see which ones were closer in length...and devise a strategy...

i had to cut about 4-6 cords and shorten them because one cord was about 1/4" shorter or more than the rest.

i measured that one out...pinned it to the board to hold it taunt...cut the burned tips of the longer cords....and measured the cut one to already connected cord...i cut the cord to be about the same length connected...with a little extra to allow for burning and melting.

i then burned the tips (just a bit at a time) and while they were still hardening measured it around the straight pins to see if i was on target...if i wasn't it was still soft enough for me to burn more if need be.

i did this for all the cords that needed to be shortened...and created two sets.

the two sets are not the same lengths...but all the cords in each set is the same length...i.e. the cords in the back beam are all one length...and vice versa...but the back set and front set doesn't have to be the exact length...just as long that all the cords are the same in its set.

okay...i hope that made sense and will help.

sorry its so wordy...its one of those things that takes a bit more to explain than to do...

and hey....i told myself...if i mess it up..it'll just be a trip to jo'anns to get some more nylon cord...once i realized that...the fear was gone!

enjoy your harp's they are wonderful and a joy to weave on!

alms's picture
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Joined: 10/26/2009
I am new to the group[ -

I am new to the group[ - recieved a Kromski 24 inch plus stand for my birthday in August - really like weaving on it .  Also bought myself a 12 inch Ashford knitters loom to travel with - knit a mohair scarf on it - warped it too thick so have a couple of ideas for my next try wit h it [bulky Robin Illusion yarn from years ago]  Also knit a blue and green Fibbonacci series scarf for a friend of mine when I was up visiting her -using her yarn - don't have pictures but it came out pretty cool.  I prefer the Kromski - am thinking of following one of the members suggestions and using the tesslov instead of the plastic warping stuff - don't like the way the plastic attachments feel, look, or work when you are warping - any other suggestions?  Anyone know how long a warp you can weave on the Knitters loom? Thanks

Lynnhelen's picture
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Joined: 06/08/2009
Glenda, I too have a new

Glenda,

I too have a new Kromski. The best way to melt them is with a candle. They take a few seconds to "melt" together. Some friendly advice: make sure all the strings are exactly the same size! Mine were off just a bit and it will throw your warp off. I also repalced my wooden dowels with metal ones. Although the company replaced my extremley warped wooden dowels  the metal seem to work better for me.

Good luck with your new Harp!

Lynn

jread's picture
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Joined: 06/08/2009
I used a candle also.  It was

I used a candle also.  It was very quick, though I did burn myself just a bit the first time I touched the melted ends to press and smooth the join - I learned quickly to wait a second or two!  But they hardened very fast, so I couldn't wait too long.  The candle smoke also blacked the ends, but I put the ends inside the dowel holes so the less attractive joins aren't showing.

And I second the comment to make sure they are all the same length, exactly.  A half inch makes a difference!

I've had my 24" Harp for just a few weeks and really love it!

- Johnna

Joined: 06/08/2009
The candle was the easiest

The candle was the easiest way to maintain a steady upright source of heat.  I used a big pillar candle and found it extremely well suited to the task.

Good luck!  I love my Kromski Harp!

Claudia Segal's picture
Online
Joined: 05/13/2009
Me, too, or should I say me

Me, too, or should I say me four or five.  I used a big pillar candle and found it quite easy.  You do need to be sure they are all the same length before you start but it works really well.

I see we have a few Kromski Harp fans, I'm definitely in love with mine.  I have travelled with it a few times and used it in the car.  It took me a project or two to get the hang of the tension but now it's wonderful.  I weaving a shawl the full width of the loom and the selvedges look very nice. 

 

RV-Weaver's picture
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Joined: 06/08/2009
What is the reason for using

What is the reason for using metal dowels?

Glenda

RHweaver's picture
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Joined: 06/08/2009
The wooden dowels tend to

The wooden dowels tend to warp, at least if you use a lot of tension as I do.  And I think they warp if you leave a warp on the loom for a long time at tension too.

I've replaced my wooden dowels with aluminum rods, as my dowels were warped.  I weave at pretty high tension since I'm usually weaving with cotton, and I tend to leave the same project on the loom for a long time (I'm talking MONTHS as I tend to flit from project to project on different looms/crafts) though I do try to remember to ease up on the tension a bit when I'm not actually weaving.

RV-Weaver's picture
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Joined: 06/08/2009
Thanks! Glenda

Thanks!

Glenda

RV-Weaver's picture
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Joined: 06/08/2009
Thanks everyone! Glenda

Thanks everyone!

Glenda

Diaspora's picture
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Joined: 05/29/2009
I bought some texsolv ladder

I bought some texsolv ladder cord and dumped the cord that came with the Harp. I bought it at fibrecrafts in the UK but I'm sure it would be readily available in any country.

eggplantlady's picture
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Joined: 08/19/2009
I also found this more

I also found this more difficult than necessary.  They should have been able to supply the necessary number of LOOPS.  I burned myself, and have since had 2 'joins' come undone.  I do want to say, however, that I love the Harp:  it is beautifully constructed and fun to use.

knit1girl1's picture
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Joined: 06/08/2009
I'll just second the texsolve

I'll just second the texsolve as I got some at WonderWool in Wales, can't remember who from. It's dead easy to use as you just thread the thread through the holes. It does slip a bit in tension but that's probably just my knots.

I've got a 24" Harp and love it. It just looks fab when it's warped up.

jenadina's picture
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Joined: 06/09/2009
Where do you get aluminum

Where do you get aluminum rods from?

quejimenez's picture
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Joined: 09/17/2009
 i'm sure i'm a bit late to

 i'm sure i'm a bit late to chim in here...

i just received my 32" harp monday...and am already deep into my first project which is the rigid heddle beginner's wal

i melted my ends too...it wasn't too hard...but it still was a "why do  i have to do this...why didn't this just come done" thing. i tried as best as possible to make sure that they were all the same size but that was a bit difficult...they are all generally the same size...i think i had one that melted down too fast and ended up being a smidgen (1/4") short...none of them are off that much...so far i haven't had a problem...and i'm hoping it stays that way...

i too weave with very tight tension...so i'll be keeping the metal dowels in the back of my mind...i have noticed that they do warp a bit when in use...

all and all i will say that i absolutely love my harp...hands down i adore it and am most happy with my decision to get this on over the flip...

kiandra

Joined: 06/20/2009
Does this loom have the

Does this loom have the built-in warping board that I have been hearing about? Does anyone have a picture of this built-in warping board to post? (even if it is on another loom)

Laverne

 

jenadina's picture
Offline
Joined: 06/09/2009
Yeah, this is the one. 

Yeah, this is the one.  Here's a link with pics: www.newvoyager.com/rigidheddlelooms.html

 

Joined: 06/20/2009
Thanks Jen! Oh bummer I wish

Thanks Jen! Oh bummer I wish my Ashford had that. Maybe I could rig up something on the Ashford frame-it's a very nifty idea for someone like me with NO ROOM. I just ordered the stand for my 32'' Ashford today-early Christmas present! I am hoping it is collapsable.......but suspect it isn't .Where am I going to put it?

BTW..... about the pvc pipe warping board that you showed me-it needs to be glued, right? So you can't just take it to pieces and store it away?

jenadina's picture
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Joined: 06/09/2009
Yeah, the Kromski is nice

Yeah, the Kromski is nice where space is concerned what with the folding and the warping board.

Do you have the regular Ashford or the Knitter's Loom?

Personally, I'd love to have any of the above, but especially the Kromski.

Joined: 06/20/2009
I have the regular Ashford. I

I have the regular Ashford. I was in Australia, didn't do ANY homework and just went straight out and bought it. I guess I was kind of partial to Ashford just because they are from New Zealand-neighbors and all. Plus they have a ''rep'' in Chile but, as it turns out, this so-called rep doesn't respond to any enquiries.

DJCNOR's picture
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Joined: 06/08/2009
   I have a Kromski harp

 

 I have a Kromski harp loom, too. I bought it specifically because of its warping board capability, but also because I teach individual weaving students, and it makes a very good starting and lending  loom with its folding capability. Since I use the warping board to wind warps for my floor loom, I wish I could wind warps longer than 4 1/2 yards, but I'm generally pretty happy with it.

Donna

sandeleh's picture
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Joined: 06/12/2009
I have the Ashford RH with

I have the Ashford RH with stand, and while the stand is easy enough to disassembe, it's not really colapsable unless you take the side pieces apart.  The legs are sort of U-shaped and make up front and back leg for each side and then there are cross pieces that keep the stand and loom stable while you weave.   The cross piece on the back of the legs attaches with bolts and knobs, so it is easy to tighten when it gets loose.  The loom fits into slots on the legs and has the same bolt and handle that can be tightened when loose or loosened to take the loom off the legs.

here is the stand without the loom

the knobs are kinda hard to see on the above photo, but are the black blobs at the tops of the legs.  The piece of wood across the bottom of the stand (on the floor) just lays there and I have broken one end off by stepping on it.  Oops...  Anway, if I still had that piece I think my loom and stand would not be as wobbly as they are.  When I'm weaving, I tend to put a foot on each bottom piece of the legs and to tighten up the knobs if I feel the loom wobble when I beat.

BTW - after having the loom for some years now, I've done away with the Ashford "warp sticks" and tie the apron rods directly to the warp and cloth beams.  Easier and only 1 set of ties to worry about being the same length.

Sande

Joined: 06/20/2009
Thanks for that Sande. My

Thanks for that Sande. My stand is on its way and I should have it next week. I got it from Nancy at The Woolery who was wonderful. Where am I going to put this stand???????heaven knows-it may have to hang from the ceiling! I would also like to add something to my comment above about Ashford's Chilean rep-I did get a response but not soon enough as I had already decided to buy from the US. I will happily buy from him next time I need Ashford products.

Thanks for the tip about the ''warp sticks''.

knitsalot's picture
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Joined: 11/02/2009
I busted one of the cords on

I busted one of the cords on my first project, I am hoping that the length won't change much if I melt another join into it.   If it does, I may replace the cord loops with something like cable ties, which my husband buys in bulk.....

 

Also, I started a separate Weavolution group for Kromski Rigid Heddle looms, if anyone else wants to join. I somehow missed this group in the first search I did, but I'm glad I found it as it seems to be very active and helpful to beginners like me.

 

Joanne

Claudia Segal's picture
Online
Joined: 05/13/2009
Hey Joanne, There are lots of

Hey Joanne,

There are lots of Harp users here, welcome.  I'll go join the Kromski group, too.

As for the cords, you can also get in touch with New Voyager Trading or just buy some nylon cord.  I keep tons of the nylon cord because I use it to lash on my warps.  I bought a roll at the local hardware store for very little money.

It is very important that the cords be the exact same length.  If you are a quarter inch off it will have a very negative effect on the warp tension.  If you shorten one, shorten them all or just use a different method for attaching the apron bar onto the beam and not worry about it.  Even tension is everything so be careful

Claudia, RH group moderator

quejimenez's picture
Offline
Joined: 09/17/2009
 Claudia, i took your advice

 Claudia,

i took your advice concerning my irregular nylon cords on my harp and yesterday morning sat myself down and fixed them up. it wasn't as bad as i thought it was going to be and i came away with a bit of a trick to do it (at least to me). maybe this will help other kromski harp newbies/owners.

What i did to get even tie on strings:

first off, the first time i did the burning and connecting i got most of them "about" the same size...and figured it was okay...well thanks to claudia, after my first project (which did have some tension issues...which i thought it was because of my inexperience...but was probably because of my strings) i decided to re-burn...and it wasn't as hard as i thought...

i took out my quilters pressing board (basically a padded ironing surface), grabbed some quilting pins and pinned all the loops down...and stretched them out...and measured them using the guides on the pressing board.

from there i was able to see which ones were closer in length...and devise a strategy...

i had to cut about 4-6 cords and shorten them because one cord was about 1/4" shorter or more than the rest.

i measured that one out...pinned it to the board to hold it taunt...cut the burned tips of the longer cords....and measured the cut one to already connected cord...i cut the cord to be about the same length connected...with a little extra to allow for burning and melting.

i then burned the tips (just a bit at a time) and while they were still hardening measured it around the straight pins to see if i was on target...if i wasn't it was still soft enough for me to burn more if need be.

i did this for all the cords that needed to be shortened...and created two sets.

the two sets are not the same lengths...but all the cords in each set is the same length...i.e. the cords in the back beam are all one length...and vice versa...but the back set and front set doesn't have to be the exact length...just as long that all the cords are the same in its set.

okay...i hope that made sense and will help.

sorry its so wordy...its one of those things that takes a bit more to explain than to do...

and hey....i told myself...if i mess it up..it'll just be a trip to jo'anns to get some more nylon cord...once i realized that...the fear was gone!

enjoy your harp's they are wonderful and a joy to weave on!

alms's picture
Offline
Joined: 10/26/2009
I am new to the group[ -

I am new to the group[ - recieved a Kromski 24 inch plus stand for my birthday in August - really like weaving on it .  Also bought myself a 12 inch Ashford knitters loom to travel with - knit a mohair scarf on it - warped it too thick so have a couple of ideas for my next try wit h it [bulky Robin Illusion yarn from years ago]  Also knit a blue and green Fibbonacci series scarf for a friend of mine when I was up visiting her -using her yarn - don't have pictures but it came out pretty cool.  I prefer the Kromski - am thinking of following one of the members suggestions and using the tesslov instead of the plastic warping stuff - don't like the way the plastic attachments feel, look, or work when you are warping - any other suggestions?  Anyone know how long a warp you can weave on the Knitters loom? Thanks