I am preparing a guild program on corduroy - the corduroy of (among others) Murphy and Collingwood, the corduroy that, when cut, gives a pile on the fabric surface.
When I looked in older Swedish encyclopedias, I found references to something different. (My translation): "Korderoj (from english coruyroy, originally with a completely different meaning, compare to king's cord), can be a thick uncut cotton velvet with raised ridges, looking like strings (cord), also (and more common) some multi-coloured, striped or checked simpler suiting fabrics in wool or half-wool"
The spelling (korderoj) is just normal "Swedishified" spelling of corduroy. However, several old encyclopedias state that the more common usage of the word is for a "simpler" fabric, usually striped or checked.
Anyone out there who recognizes a different "corduroy" structure?
(For my Swedish friends, I will post in the Scandinavian group too)
Since velvet (similar) can be cut or uncut, it makes sense that corduroy would appear in both forms - all my "good" books are at home and I'm at the shop - will check when returning home later today.
Yes, I have no problem with the un-cut part - it is more the "from english coruyroy, originally with a
completely different meaning" and the "(and more common) [...] simpler
suiting fabrics in wool or half-wool" that I run into problems... (Maybe "simple" should instead be translated into "cheaper" - )
I have also looked in "literal" literature, but it has proved impossible to deduct whether the korderoj mentioned is "simple" or piled. "... wearing a suit of green korderoj" doesn't really tell if the green is striped or solid...
Kerstin,
I took some time to go through my book collection - I followed some references in Rodier's "Romance of French Weaving" indicating that corduroy was referred to at "thickset" in 18th century weaving manuscripts. I just checked John Hargrove's "Weavers Draft Book" (think it is out on handweaving.net) and did some drafting using his "thickset" weaves. They are always located on the same page as "fustian" "jean" and other "cord" weaves. I was seeing weft ribs that, when turned, would make a nice ribbed fabric for men't pants (which the book also recommended).
I haven't much more time this morning, but will keep looking - I think that there was a "corduroy" that meant ribbed, but not pile fabric.
From Fairchild's Dictionary of Textiles, 7th Ed.:
Probably derived from the French cord du roi meaning "king's cord". 1. A strong, durable fabric with vertical cut-pile stripes formed by an extra system of filling yarns. The foundation of the fabric can be either a plain or twill weave. The pile flling weaves with one or more warp ends and floats over three or more, floating over the same ends throughout. After the cloth is woven the floats of the pile are cut in their center; after cutting the fibers tend to spring upward and later are brushed up to form the pile in ridges or cords. these ridges are rounded, with the longest fibers in the center (formed by the longer floats) and the shortest fibers on each side (formed by the shorter floats). Corduroys can be piece dyed or printed in plaids, stripes or other patterns. Uses: men's and women's sportswear, dresses, children's clothing. When woven with a twill back, the fabric is somethimes called genoa back corduroy or genoa cord and when plain back is used, tabby-back corduroy.
