I am a new weaver. I have a 4 shaft loom and am doing a weekend project from Handwoven's March/April 2007 (page 45). The draft says to thread the sequence 11 times, for with a warp of 242 ends. I have done that. The warp is 36 epi (3/dents in a 12 dent reed). Width in reed is 7". Does this mean I thread 3 ends (sequentially) in each dent? Doesn't that mean that when I treadle I will have warp threads put together that don't belong together? I can't seem to get the tabby between picks this way. What am I doing wrong when threading through the reed??? Please help!
Threading the reed simply spreads out your warp evenly for you. Sounds like you have done that part right 3per dent in a 12 = 36epi. When you thread the heddles each individual thread within each dent of the reed will be instructed to go in a particular heddle. This will give you the rise and fall of the pattern. Go slow...the heddle treading is crucial. Good luck.
Sandra
Without looking for the issue of Handwoven, I assume that the three threads in a dent are not on the same shaft (harness). Only those threads on the shafts that are tied to a treadle will rise (or lower) when the treadle is depressed. If the threads in the first dent are threaded on shafts 1, 2, and 3, and shafts 1 and 3 are tied to treadle 1, then threads 1 and 3 will rise (or lower depending on your loom) when treadle 1 is depressed. The thread on shaft 2 will stay put. Hope that this helps.
Janet
It may not be the denting, but often if the shed is poor, it's because the warp threads are not going over the back beam. Ask me how I know...
From your description, and looking at the pattern, it sounds as if you have got it threaded and dented correctly. The sleying through the reed should be sequntial with the threading. Only certain threads will rise in each dent as you lift each shaft, as Janet described above.
You didn't say what kind / size of yarn you are using. A sticky wool dented at 3 threads per dent will be more difficult than, say, cotton. If you don't have good tension, the threads might stick to each other and make it difficult to produce a good shed.
Thank you everyone. That makes me feel better. I am using a cotton, but maybe it's too thick and that's what is making it stick.
If you warp is so thick that you aren't getting a good shed when raising mulitple shafts. Separate them, raise one shaft and then the other. For example; in a plain weave 1&3 come up together then 2&4. Raise shaft 1 so that 1/4 of your threads come up and then shaft 3 so other 1/4of threads come up. The threads won't stick together that way. However, if you are weaving a pattern and raising multiple shafts...you would have to raise your shafts as if working on a direct tie-up. It will take longer to weave, but at least you will be able to separate the threads for a decent shed. Lesson learned...the hard way is always the best way, I say. Then you really believe it.
Sandra
What is your warp yarn? A 10/2 cotton would be sett at 36 epi max unless you're doing a rep weave or other heavy warp-faced fabric. When you follow a project, if you're not using the same yarn (or a similar yarn that requires the same sett) you have to adjust.
Could you explain further or post a pic of the problem.
The first thing I check if almost half the threads are raising up for a plain weave shed but a few aren't --is I look for crossed threads. All warps must be absolutely parallel between the front beam and back beam. If on thread is taken out of sequence and crosses over another thread-anywhere, behind the heddles, between the heddles and reed- the crossed thread will not function as they should. Check any warps that don't come up properly and see if they are parallel the entire path. If you find some crossed warps you will need to fix them,which is usually easy, and you'll be ready to weave.
Could you explain further or post a pic of the problem.
The first thing I check if almost half the threads are raising up for a plain weave shed but a few aren't --is I look for crossed threads. All warps must be absolutely parallel between the front beam and back beam. If one thread is taken out of sequence and crosses over another thread-anywhere, behind the heddles, between the heddles and reed- the crossed thread will not function as they should. Check any warps that don't come up properly and see if they are parallel the entire path. If you find some crossed warps you will need to fix them,which is usually easy, and you'll be ready to weave.
