Doubling-up selvage question

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Weavin Steven's picture
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Joined: 02/19/2010

Selvages on this forum have been discussed extensively, but I couldn't find the answer to this question. 

Let's say you have a project that is 30 epi using a 10-dent reed, so you're threading each dent with 3 threads. You want to double up the last two selvage ends on either side. Would you then thread the reed for those last two ends at 6 per slot? That seems like it would be too tight. Would an alternative be to just thread the last 1 dent at 6 threads?

I have no problem with my selvages, I'm just exploring alternate ways of treating my selvages.

Joanne Hall's picture
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Joined: 06/11/2009
doubled selvages

are usually made so that the finished piece will wear longer.  For instance, Peter Collingwood always doubled his selvage warp ends so that the rug on the floor would wear longer as people walk on it.  I have also heard that a damask weaver doubled the last selvage warp thread since damask selvages tend to curl and doubling the selvage was a way to attempt to lessen the curling. 

So, just weave without a doubled selvage until you find a purpose for doubling it.  There are few weaving purposes for doubling the selvages.  Sometimes a weaver who weaves without a temple will double the selvage thread if their experience is that the selvage thread will break.  But doubling the selvage does not stop the draw-in that causes the breakage.  So, the solution is to use a temple, rather than adding another warp thread. 

Joanne

Sara von Tresckow's picture
Joined: 05/29/2009
Particularly for household

Particularly for household textiles, I prefer to double at least the last 2 threads - when wet finished, those selvedge threads swell up and even out any tiny loops or unevenness at the edge. It certainly gives a nicer wearing edge and then approximates commercial textiles with the firmer selvedge - achieved either by doubling threads in the heddles or cramming the reed. It is also nice on any fabric used for dressmaking - the same advantage of doing waistbands on the selvedge for commercial fabric holds true for handwoven. I use John Becker's recommnendation to double "several" threads on the edge for damask - with the result on fine threads being that you do not see the doubling at all and the result is a beautiful clean edge. On decorative scarves, etc. I often do not double - depends on the project.

I generally sley the reed at the same density as the rest of the piece, meaning that there may be a dent or two more than you calculate mathematically - doesn't make any difference in the finished product.

Edge control is achieved with use of temple - not use of threads, as is breakage along the selvedges - the doubling is more for the effect on the finished cloth. And I definitely triple or quadruple sley for the last two warps on a rug.

LauraFry's picture
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Joined: 05/25/2009
I will double selvedge ends

I will double selvedge ends of very fine threads but not generally on thicker ones.  i.e. the warp currently on the loom is a 20/2 merc cotton and I have doubled the ends in the last four heddles, but leave the density the same in the reed.  If you double the density in the reed, the weft threads won't beat in the same way and you can wind up with little 'smiles' at the selvedge.

And yes, I'm using a temple on the warp but still double the ends because I've found the 20/2 merc. cotton can still break even with the temple.  Just easier to double than deal with broken selvedge ends.  :)

cheers,

Laura