Going Tues. to pick a Dryad Upright Rug Loom. The orginal owner. Bought it when she was in Europe in the 70's. From the pictures, it looks to be in good condition. Does anyone have one of these looms? Could use a little info. Has 2 foot treadles.............Steve.
I haven't got one of these looms or seen one, either. But just found this link to the original manual that's online at this link:
Maybe the loom you're getting is like the one on page 11. It will be interesting to read your adventures with the loom!
HI Steve....I have one of these looms and I use it to weave tapestry. It is wonderfully sturdy, has a lot of room for weaving and I personally really like having treadles to open the sheds for me. I have been very happy with my loom, which I got for bargain price and the cost of gas to pick it up! What kind of info are you looking for??
Tommye, Thanks for the web site. I will copy it. Yes, the loom pictured on page 11 is the loom I'm getting.
Su, Thank you for the input. I'm assuming this is more of a tapestry loom. It's called a "rug" loom. Is it for navajo type rugs? I'm into rag rugs. Will this work on rag rugs? Do you use a small hand beater or does it have some sort of beater, like a reed? Is there a special weaving book for this kind of loom? Sorry for so many questions, but want to know as much as I can when I get it (her) home.Thanks again...............Steve
HI Steve....the loom can certainly be used to weave rag rugs. It has great tension and the upright format allows you to see more of the rug as you weave. Mine had a beater that is pulled downward to beat and returns to the up position by the force of the springs connected to it. My loom has a reed. I think once you get it you will see that the loom functions just like a floor loom, only it is upright instead of being parallel to the floor. I would suggest you dress the loom using the "B2F" method, or in this case, top to bottom. Wind the warp onto the warp beam first. Then all the threads hang down and gravity help you thread the heddles and sley the reed. This loom is really easy to ues and I hope you will be quite happy with it! Mine is a 2-shaft CB action loom which works exceptionally well for my tapestry weaving, but it works equally well for plain weave rag rugs. Happy weaving!
Su, I'm going put a sectional on the top beam. The beam is eight side, perfect to add a sectional. This will make warping much easier. Thanks for all the info. I do like ths loom so far. Cleaning it up. Using lub. made for wood. Works good. Replaced the springs. There is a warp already on it, a heavy linen. Just need to slay the reed and tie on to the fabric beam, then I can try some weaving...........Steve.
Hey Steve....a sectional beam should work out well on this loom....and make dressing the loom that much easier. Glad you are enjoying the loom....I love mine! I think you'll find it a workhorse!
Lucky you! I had no idea such a loom existed. I've never seen an upright rug loom with treadles. I am glad to learn about them. Bet they are hard to find, but worth keeping an eye out for. I wonder if they are perhaps more common in the SW United States?
Hey Neshobe....I found mine in Milwaukee, Wisconsin, but I suspect they are not that plentiful in the States as they were originally manufactured in England. I regularly see them for sale, even for FREE on Freecycle, in the UK.
@Steve - this little pamphlet might interest you.....
Shows a rug being woven on the Dryad Foot Power Rug loom on the latter pages....there is more info about Dryad looms at Handweaving.net as well...
Maybe I should start checking freecycle for England. OK, so I'm a dreamer... I notice that LeClerc has a loom that looks somewhat similar: upright, with two pedels. But not in my price range. Maybe I'll get lucky. One never knows. Enjoy your fortuitous find, Steve- I'm looking forward to seeing what you weave on it.
The Leclerc Gobelin style loom can be gotten with two shafts and treadles, I think. Leclerc once made an upright loom called the Tissart, also with two shafts and treadles. They no longer make the loom and haven't for many years but occasionally those become available on the "previously owned" loom circuit. I have a 45" wide Tissart that I bought in 1988 from the person who purchased the loom originally.
As for an upright loom with shafts & treadles currently being made in the U.S., the Fireside tapestry looms are just great. Check the Fireside looms website for more information about them. I have one, the smaller cantilever tapestry loom with two shafts and two treadles, but it does not have a beater--fine for my purposes since I don't use a beater in the way I do tapestry. The larger upright loom does have a beater, I think. All of my upright looms have been purchased from previous owners, by the way. I have four: the Tissart; the Fireside cantilever tapestry loom; a "Ruthie", made by Crisp (no longer in business but the Fireside traditional tapestry loom is based on the design); and a 48" Shannock tapestry loom. The Tissart and the Ruthie both have beaters--although I don't use them, as I said.
Uses of these looms for weaving other than tapestry might proved to be slower than floor looms where the shuttle can be thrown from selvedge to selvedge. However, the footprint of the loom is not as deep as a floor loom, usually, so possibly one might find that appealing.
I'll keep an eye out. One of the things that appeals to me about the Dryad, though, is that it is a rug loom that doesn't take up a lot of floor space. I'm not much interested in tapestry except as occasional embellishment, because my fingers don't always take commands well.
Neshobe, I will keep my eye out for another Dryad Loom for you. If I find one, I'll let you know...........Steve.
HI Neshobe....there is one for sale here - no affiliation
Hope that helps....
I've finished cleaning a assembling the Dryad vertical tapestry loom I found. It has 3 treadles: one for each shaft and one to release the beater. I have a few questions before I can start using it though:
- The top and bottom beams are puzzling me. They have no aprons; instead there is a 1 inch groove running the width of the beam on one side. There is a stick that appears to be meant to fit in the groove, but there is nothing to secure it there. I am flummoxed as to how I'm supposed to attach the warp properly.
- the loom came without a reed, but there is space for one. When I buy a reed, if I want to make cut pile carpet, what would be the best number of dents per inch?
here's a pic of the warp beam:
I have one as well, but have not put it together yet. I'd like to do some refinishing before I do so. I do plan to use it for tapestry. The manual was with it, but I am downloading the one at the link since I like to have things on my harddrive.
They are VERY heavy and mine came in two large, heavy boxes, so I would imagine the price would be prohibitive. Don't mean to rain on your parade, but, I'd keep an eye out on this side of the Pond. The Tissart is the same sort of beast. Not as sturdy, but a good loom, nevertheless. I wove on one when I was working with Michelle Lester. I do prefer the sturdiness of the Dryad.
I too have a Dryad (currently in storage in NZ) - it resembles the picture in the Dryad guide (No. 85) mentioned above, and in a couple of other photo's available on the web. It's not exactly the same in that the beater is hinged from the back (although still suspended on springs so it returns 'up'). The major difference, and the bit I couldn't work out when I first put it together (after purchase) was how the friction (I think) mechanism on the warp roller works. None of the photo's show this bit clearly. The cloth roller has a logical ratchet and handle, the warp roller has metal multi-stranded cables that look like they wrap around grooves at each end. Is this the same as your's Steve?
Both my warp and cloth beam have ratchets on the hand wheels on the ends. My beater slides on groves down the side fame with springs to pull it back up. At work now and can't send any pictures. I can send as many pictures as you want when I get home tomorrow. I am going to add a cross piece to the bottom back to help stabilize the loom better.It does sway a little side to side..................Steve.
I don't know if this is still available, but when I spoke to the woman she said she would ship if someone made all the arrangements.
Can you tell me where the loom comes apart? I'm just purchased one and am trying to figure logistics of bringing it home. I'd like to bring it home without dismantling if I can, but may need to take it apart.
The Dryad looms do not come apart. The LeClerc looms are bolted together and will break down. Ck out the LeClerc web site and look in the "Parts,Drawings,Instuctions". Then look under "Old instuctions, Tissart" This will show how it comes apart. Again, the Dryad Upright Loom DOES NOT come apart......................Steve
I misunderstood weaversouth when she said she had not put hers together as meaning they could be disassembled. I bought a Dryad (the link I sent was for a Tissart, as someone had asked about other looms with treadles). I won't be picking up my Dryad until SAFF in October. From the pictures, I couldn't see how it could be disassembled. Thanks for your reply.
How is your dryad working out for you? I'm anxious to get mine. For those of you that have both the Gobelin and the Dryad give me thoughts on the pluses/minuses of both? The Gobelin is a super well built and sturdy loom. If I had harnesses and a beater (and it were just abit smaller - I'll never need 60"), I'd never replace it. Is the Dryad as sturdy?
These two photo's show one end of the warp beam - the circular wooden piece shown has a groove around it (there is one at each end)..
There are brass fittings that look like they would have something attached to, and there is a wooden frame piece that has a cord attached that looks like it would pivot down and probably release the brake?
Fireside make several upright looms. I have a question, am not sure where to post. I am looking at a fireside Jack loom-4 shaft and 54 inches.it is a used loom and is being refurbished. Anyone every use one?
I have found this very useful, because I was chasing one on Ebay. Special thanks to Su and Steve for info by email. I went to look at it in the end, having thought that perhaps the reed mechanism would need too much strength. I was right. This one had springs and only 2 heddle peddles, no reed release peddle. You had to wrestle the reed down, the last inch being the toughest, and then it sprung back up. The other problem was that it caught on one side on the way down, so it would have been too much of an effort for me to use, even when I took the springs off (which made it a devil to get the reed back up!) This need for muscle was the intention apparently - they were made for Occupational Therapy wards before craft became embarrassing in hospitals ( a shame), so now they are turning up in peoples' barns. I hope, like this one, they will get loved and used again. Someone's going to get very strong!
Interesting. I really don't find it takes any more strength to beat on my Dryad than it does to beat rugs on my floor loom. I keep the fell about 12 inches below the beater.
Can anyone point me to a source of reeds for the Dryad? It takes a taller reed than my other looms. I know I can easily modify the loom to take a shorter reed, but I'm reluctant to do that. It's such a neat loom as it.
Patchworkfibers. I have a leClerc Gobelin tapestry loom with harnesses and treadles. You asked for plus and minuses so here are a few. The leClerc without the harnesses with string heddles is a great sturdy loom. Great tension, the works. It's my experience that once the harnesses go on the warp just can't be as taut because it's harder to get a wider shed. You can get a smaller shed you enlarge with your fingers then put the weft thru, but it's not as efficient as I thought it would be. So the warp is not as taut , not a great shed. However, this is my first large tap. On this loom with " attachments" and we've become friends, so it is doable;) I do see a Fireside in my future !
Thanks for your reply. I sold my 60" Gobelin a couple of weeks ago and replaced it with the Dryad. The Gobelin is definitely a sturdier loom, but the Dryad is quite sturdy itself. I weave rugs more than tapestry and I do like having the beater on the Dryad. I get a shed of about 1 1/2" with the treadles. For a rugs, the Dryad is my all time favorite loom, but I'd love to have a Fireside loom!
I am hoping a Dryad Foot Power loom type is going to arrive in the week. What are the differences between these and the ones pictured above
My Dryad looks similiar to halifaxious's Dryad, but my cranks are inside the frame and I don't have the third treadle to release the beater. My beater has springs. I think hers is a newer model than mine. xylem's loom is quite a bit different from mine.
No matter what I do I cannot get the picture I uploaded to show in this comment....sorry!
FINALLY figured out how to add pics...so I am showing you two pics of my Dryad Upright Rug loom. As you can see it is slightly different than the one picutred earlier in this post.
and a front view
This loom is an excellent tapestry loom!
Su, Your loom is exactly like mine. I did modify it. I added a sectional warp and two cross beams across the bottom of the front and back uprights . It's now very rigid and stable. I also changed the 3 dent reed with a 6 dent reed. I have what's called dry lub. It's a lub used on wood. I spayed on the slots and rail for the beater bar and now it slides really nice. I have it warped and ready to weave place mats. I have three other looms warped and ready to weave some more rugs, rug, mugs and handbags..................Steve.
That's the same as mine, except without the raddle. Is that original or did you add it on?
HI Ptchworkfibers....the raddle came with the loom when I bought it used. The photo you see is with the very first warp I put on it, and I forgot to take the raddle out after beaming the warp! Didn't cause any problems in the weaving, but I remove it when I put a warp in place now. It is a great help in getting a nice, smooth warp package on the warp beam.
Thanks, Su for your reply. I have araddle that is just the right side. Think I'll give it a try on my warp.
PS - is there a way to be notified of replies to posts or specific threads? I'm sure there must be and I just haven't found it. I do have the "notify me when new comments are posted", but I don't see any notifications.
Hello to all you lucky Dryad vertical loom owners! I have as of late, decided that I would like to build a smaller version of this wonderful loom. Since my interests lie in rug weaving, and, small highly detailed Purses, and hand bags. I have a robust 8H 8T Marquardsen CM for rugs and would like an equally robust loom for detailed work such as Small Format Tapestry, and Bands. This unit would weave about 16". I have exhausted everything I could find on the Dryad on the internet. I would ask if any Dryad owners would help me by sending whatever photos or information you might have, such as overall size of your loom, the size of your harness's, how they disassemble to add Texsolv,the height of your reeds. Just whatever you would like to say about the loom. If anyone would like to assist me with this please contact me, and I'll provide my personal e-mail. Thanks in advance,Regards, Frank
Frank, I can give you as many pics and measurements as you need. I did add cross beams on bottom of the front and back uprights. Made it really stable...........Steve.
I have the identical loom to the picture posted by Su Butler. I bought it new in the 70's, wove about 6 rugs and it has sat in my garage ever since. It is in excellent condition, always kept dry and even has a warp still on the loom. I would like to sell it now as I wont be using it again. Can anyone give me an idea how much it is worth, and aslo where I could advertise it. I'm located in Berkshire in the UK.
Thanks so much Su, I just picked up my Dryad Loom this weekend. We got it in the house tonight! I didn't know much about the loom when I bought it other than it seemed at steal at the price and that I probably had enough room in the studio for it! I'm glad to hear it makes a good tapestry loom as that was my plan!
Erica, have you visited the West Dean Tapestry studio near Chichester?
Not yet. I've been keeping an eye on their workshops since I saw (I believe) your blog regarding the West Dean experience. It sounds lovely! I hope in the next few years to be ble to attend a West Dean Workshop.
Congratulations on your new loom Erica! I know you will lov eit as much as I love mine - tapestry, rugs, whatever you weave will be a joy!
To Dryad weavers. I have an upright Dryad frame loom, floor model w/o treadles. What might the value of this loom be? JS
I've just gotten hold of one of these - but it needs a bit of tlc. Being as I'm not the most experienced of woodworkers - any advice/tips on sanding and re-varnishing? It currently has a few spots that tend to give you splinters - not something I want to deal with when I weave!
Hello, I just purchased an old Dryad upright (same as pictured in Su's post above). I just need to know what reed it takes - metal or a wood frame? It needs to be 34" x 4" with a max. thickness of no more than 1/2" in order to fit. Many kind thanks, Sy.
I also recently acquired a vintage upright dryad rug loom that appears to be missing the reed! looking for help as well on how to begin using this loom. does anyone know of any tapestry rug weaving teachers??
I have one of these...it's in pieces...I've never put it together and was leaving it to refinish it, but will just never have the time or "oomph" to do this. It's in Alabama..I will deliver to nearby areas, but NOT ship. I'm asking $800 for it.. It's in great shape.
I was just gifted with a Dryad loom, complete except for the reed. Does anyone know if any particular brand might fit? I'd appreciate any input on this. I'm a new weaver, and previously have only used my rigid heddle loom. This might be a challenge.